Bill and Jenny have also retired and bought a big caravan
and are doing short trips around the country. Daniel is still living in
Narrabri and is engaged. Michael is still in NT Police and living in Darwin
with Brooke, Charlotte and Jack. It was hard to think of them as being 11 and 9
years old. Unfortunately Neville has passed away and Muriel is in a nursing
home but everyone else is doing fine. We promised to call in on our way through
Casino next.
17/3 The brochures say that both the Ghan and the Indian Pacific pass through Crystal Brook at midday on saturdays so we head off early up the west coast to Wallaroo. There is a ferry that leaves from here to Lucky Bay on Eyre Peninsular but at $350 and several hours can't see how economical it would be. At the visitor centre/museum there are some huge rocks that we can't figure out what they might be. Further up we stop at the Ticketera Well where they watered the cattle bringing supplies to Moonta mine in the 1850's.
We stop briefly in Port Broughton as we have to hurry to Crystal Brook and then sit and wait and wait and eventually a loco hauling rail lines comes along and stops in front of us. Then we wait and wait some more and are just about to give up when an SCT loco hauling 1 passenger car and lots of freight wagons comes past. Process of elimination decides that this is the Indain Pacific returning from Perth but it had stacks of cars on board! When a Pacific National came past we figured that it was heading to Darwin; but it also only had 1 passenger car and lots of 40 foot containers on top of 20 foot ones!! So much for the thrill of seeing the IP and Ghan locomotives in all their livery.
Heading home we try to go by roads untraveled before so I devise a little riddle
What is between Port Adelaide, Port Pirie, Port Broughton, Port Wakefield and Port Hughes -
don't know? answer Cream Puff Corner. There is nothing to say how it got its' name - just a corner in the middle of farming country. We had only just stopped laughing when had to scream to a halt at the row of pedestals on side of road. 20 of them all different colours, some with cacti planted in, others had rag dolls or teddies sitting on them watching the world go by. It was brilliant.
What is between Port Adelaide, Port Pirie, Port Broughton, Port Wakefield and Port Hughes -
don't know? answer Cream Puff Corner. There is nothing to say how it got its' name - just a corner in the middle of farming country. We had only just stopped laughing when had to scream to a halt at the row of pedestals on side of road. 20 of them all different colours, some with cacti planted in, others had rag dolls or teddies sitting on them watching the world go by. It was brilliant.
Further on Bute had steel cutouts of a farmer and dogs rounding up some ewes and lambs in their park. I rather like them. The Ninnes well was dug in 1865 - 115 feet deep and it produced 10,000 gallons per day.The locals could buy water for 6 pence per 100 gallons. The cement tank next to it was quite large and dry. You wonder how they managed to cement a tank back then when all the concrete had to be mixed by hand and hand applied.
19/3 The area around Ardrossan was very dry but the town is in a beautiful setting, with sandy beaches and blue water and a Onesteel gypsum mine within sight. We hoped that the wind doesn't blow too often from south west or they would be covered in dust.
At Billy Goat Flat we find an ostrich farm with lots of them in varying ages. The young ones were molting and starting to get their adult feathers and looked quite funny, but all were quite inquisitive. The people of Muloowurtie erected a monument to their forebears to mark the towns centenary in 1974, which was a little unusual - bronze plaque, mosaic boat and a statue of a clydesdale and all denoting the pioneers, fishermen and horses that did so much heavy work.
At Billy Goat Flat we find an ostrich farm with lots of them in varying ages. The young ones were molting and starting to get their adult feathers and looked quite funny, but all were quite inquisitive. The people of Muloowurtie erected a monument to their forebears to mark the towns centenary in 1974, which was a little unusual - bronze plaque, mosaic boat and a statue of a clydesdale and all denoting the pioneers, fishermen and horses that did so much heavy work.
Wool Bay has a lime kiln built into the side of the cliff. You put the lime in top off the road, put would have had to scramble down the cliff to put wood onto the fire. Maybe the cliffs have washed away over the years - wouldn't have been a great job it they haven't. We journey on and see Troubridge island in the distant and manage to get a photo by putting tripod on roof of ute and using greatest zoom. The Troubridge hill lighthouse is at Suicide Point. Would have been quite easy to suicide - cliffs were quite steep and the wind could blow you over the edge.
The countryside around here is very dry and barren but there are some hills. The highest have the Wattle Point wind farm on them. Massive wind vanes that look so elegant and gentle. We stop beside one and they are quite quiet. We were quite intrigued with the pink lake and wondered what the salt would taste like - normal salt or could you taste the algae that gives it the colour, so J decided to go and get some. Well he slipped over in the mud and then lost his strides so it was quite a comical sight that returned. He couldn't stop to pull shorts up because his hands were full of mud and he was delicately holding a bit of salt out of the mud.
The Lions club of Yorketown have erected a very good street map in their info bay, which I am sure other small towns could copy. Yorketown was a lovely old town where we found a very old windmill. It had narrow wooden blades that were hardly offset so we wondered how much wind would be needed to get it to turn.
21/3 Port Wakefield is at the head of Gulf of St Vincent so we decide to head over there to see what there is - nothing - we were very disappointed, but do manage to find a caravan shop where we try to get another radio because ours doesn't pick up am radio and I want Macca on Sundays. They don't have any! Throughout Qld we found signs marking the spots that Tommy Mitchell ate, drank, slept and walked but here in SA it's all about Matty Flinders. At a lookout overlooking the head of gulf they have a cairn etc saying that he climbed up the hill on 30/3/1802 to survey the surrounds. Our favourite roads continue around Port Clinton when we find One and All road. Maybe it has something to do with the One and All boat we saw at Port Adelaide?
Exploring the Moonta copper mine remains fills in the remainder of the afternoon. They have put boardwalks up the slag heaps so you can climb to the top and view everything from above. There is still plenty of copper around as the rocks are quite green and someone who shall remain nameless stole a few. I guess they are keeping it as a museum/tourist attraction because nothing has been done to rehabilitate the area and it is right in town.
Our travel auctions web site had a stay going at Port Neill, which is where our friends from Adelaide caravan park came from so we hastily put in a bid for $16 night and get it, so it is with happy hearts we head off for Wilpeena Pound. Not so happy after lunch at Stone Hut. Stone Hut was named after the stone hut where pioneers stopped for a break; I bet they didn't pay the exorbitant prices we did. The Bakery believes that they are quite famous and have the best pies in Aust and we just ordered 2 pies, a cup of coffee and a cup of tea. While waiting we browsed the crafts and preserves etc on display and came across a small bottle of Quandong chutney, so it was added to the order. When we came to pay up $47 was charged - now we know why there were no prices on display. ps Quandong chutney was very nice but not $20 worth.
23/3 We stopped in Hawker yesterday on our way to Wilpeena and spoke to a pilot about taking a flight over Lake Eyre – as there was only the 2 of us it was going to cost $1250 each so we had to leave it. On arriving at Rawnsley Park station where we are staying, we found another 2 people who want to do the flight so at $820 each we are off, and it is amazing. We fly up the eastern side of Wilpeena pound, across the Flinders range and then head north over Parachilna to Leigh Creek where there is a huge coal mine.
The flinders are huge, majestic, red/orange coloured and at the moment surrounded by green. Heading north we see Lyndhurst from the air, then Marree and the teardrop railway interchange where you used to change from narrow to standard guage. Dean our pilot points out the Stryzleckie track heading out to the east, the Birdsville track to the north and Oodnatta track to west, and then there it is – the blue shimmer of Lake Eye South.
LES is 80% full and looked wonderful, and was so different to Lake Eyre North which only has 20% water and is surrounded by a salt crust. LEN also had a huge expanse of pink algae which when swirled about by the wind looked amazing. The deepest the water gets is 1 meter but most of it is about 1 foot deep and at the deepest spot it is 15 feet below sea level. As it is very sensitive to wind you get wonderful patterns swirling over the surface and different colours depending on how wet the salt crust is. A truly awe inspiring experience.
All
the way we could see the creeks that flow out of mountains into lakes, and to
see the Warburton channel pouring blue (fresh) water into the lake was
unbelievable. LES is filled from local creeks whereas LEN is filled from Qld.
It takes 4 months for our water to get here if it is going to, and all of last
years’ floods has evaporated, so they are waiting for this years’ flood waters
to get here. The rain that stopped us coming up here from Burra has had a
remarkable effect on the countryside – it is green everywhere. We fly across
LEN and then down to William Creek for lunch. WC is on Anna Creek Station the
largest cattle station in the world. Some 5.8 million acres where they run 1
cow per 160 acres – bit different to Broxburn and Scrubby. Looked very poor
country but I guess the saltbush and bluebush must have some nutrients in them.
WC is your typical outback pub – covered in memorabilia – where we had Kangaroo
yiros. Yiros are kebabs in our language and these were yummy.
Back in the plane we head south and fly over the opal slag heaps at Andamooka, the yellow tinge around Olympic Dam uranium mine, Roxby Downs where Dean (Cassie’s brother) is working so hard, and the painted hills. These are a series of low red hills with splashes of white sandstone showing out and looked really spectacular. Unfortunately the camera didn’t focus properly so we lost all those photos – which is really upsetting. We fly home down the middle of Lake Torrens, the 2nd largest salt water lake in Oz. It has a green algae tinge so looked quite a contrast to LEN but also had some wonderful salt ‘beaches’ and patterns.
We then get up close with the western side of Wilpeena pound and do a lap around the circumference – absolutely stunning at sunset. 6.5 hours later we have a perfect landing back at Rawnsley.
Saturday sees us set of at ground level – first to Wilpeena, which we found very disappointing from over commercialization, then off on the Bunyeroo gorge road which restored our enthusiasm. The Flinders ranges are full of gorges and old ruins from where people originally settled, built a stone cottage and tried to make a living. There are still quite a few stations (mainly sheep) around the area, but they cover a huge area and most also have camping grounds or tourism ventures of some sort. We wander off to check out all the sights at lookouts etc and end up having lunch at Yanyanna Lookout.
It was so different to Old Ketchowla homestead – a friendly young magpie who wanted to share our food, ants by millions and 6 car loads also wanting to see the view. Travelling on the Bunyeroo gorge, Razorback ridge and Brachina gorge are awe inspiring in their size, colours and shapes; as was my first wildflower - gorgeous purple flower on a small grey leaved shrub.
Hans Heysen painted many pictures from Aroona station where his hut is still standing, but the main stone house has only a base left. The spring here is 30 feet above surrounding land and according to the man who got down and levered up a board on its cover the water is 2 feet from surface. You wonder how, when the surrounding area is so dry. We can get the caravan in here so will be back for a break. The ABC range is amazing – 26 smaller pointed mountains in a line. Nearing the Blinman road we pass by a grave for 2 year old Emma Smith. It seems the area was a stop over point for teams bringing wood from Blinman to Burra mines. You wonder how poor Emma died; and that the grave is still well cared for.
Stopping off at Stokes Hill lookout we chat to a Victorian couple about the bronze image of pound they have there and soak up the 360* views. After much searching we find the Cazneaux tree – there were some wonderful river gum trees that could have been just as famous.
Nearing home we come across a wedding party having their photos taken with pound as backdrop, and 200 metres on they were taking photos of men in undies for Aussie blue ads. The late afternoon light would have made them something special I’m sure. The photos that is - male model was a bit weedy!
25/3 We head off down Moralana scenic route past Elder range and through Blacks Gap – another aweinspiring place. We pass the variety club bash vehicles on the road and learn that they are staying at Merna Morna station.
Heading up road we meet the Leigh Creek coal train – it wasn’t 3 kilometers long but had 3 engines, 120 coal trucks and a flat top. Of course John wanted us to get a photo of the 3 engines and line of coal bins so he took off along a dirt track along the railway line, with me hanging on for dear life trying to get out the window to take some photos. Hope they are good pictures.
We take another look at Brachina gorge from western side and have lunch alongside some amazing rock formations and colours; before heading into Parachilna, where the menu took J’s fancy – Roo, Emu and Camel.
The
road from Parachilna to Blinman is still closed from the rain a few weeks ago
so we travel via Glass Gorge. You can imagine the torrent of water that must
come down some of these creeks when you see the size of these mountains.
For a town way out Blinman has some nice B & B cottages, gallerys and café and of course an Anglican church on a hill overlooking town.
The Lions club of Yorketown have erected a very good street map in their info bay, which I am sure other small towns could copy. Yorketown was a lovely old town where we found a very old windmill. It had narrow wooden blades that were hardly offset so we wondered how much wind would be needed to get it to turn.
21/3 Port Wakefield is at the head of Gulf of St Vincent so we decide to head over there to see what there is - nothing - we were very disappointed, but do manage to find a caravan shop where we try to get another radio because ours doesn't pick up am radio and I want Macca on Sundays. They don't have any! Throughout Qld we found signs marking the spots that Tommy Mitchell ate, drank, slept and walked but here in SA it's all about Matty Flinders. At a lookout overlooking the head of gulf they have a cairn etc saying that he climbed up the hill on 30/3/1802 to survey the surrounds. Our favourite roads continue around Port Clinton when we find One and All road. Maybe it has something to do with the One and All boat we saw at Port Adelaide?
Exploring the Moonta copper mine remains fills in the remainder of the afternoon. They have put boardwalks up the slag heaps so you can climb to the top and view everything from above. There is still plenty of copper around as the rocks are quite green and someone who shall remain nameless stole a few. I guess they are keeping it as a museum/tourist attraction because nothing has been done to rehabilitate the area and it is right in town.
Our travel auctions web site had a stay going at Port Neill, which is where our friends from Adelaide caravan park came from so we hastily put in a bid for $16 night and get it, so it is with happy hearts we head off for Wilpeena Pound. Not so happy after lunch at Stone Hut. Stone Hut was named after the stone hut where pioneers stopped for a break; I bet they didn't pay the exorbitant prices we did. The Bakery believes that they are quite famous and have the best pies in Aust and we just ordered 2 pies, a cup of coffee and a cup of tea. While waiting we browsed the crafts and preserves etc on display and came across a small bottle of Quandong chutney, so it was added to the order. When we came to pay up $47 was charged - now we know why there were no prices on display. ps Quandong chutney was very nice but not $20 worth.
23/3 We stopped in Hawker yesterday on our way to Wilpeena and spoke to a pilot about taking a flight over Lake Eyre – as there was only the 2 of us it was going to cost $1250 each so we had to leave it. On arriving at Rawnsley Park station where we are staying, we found another 2 people who want to do the flight so at $820 each we are off, and it is amazing. We fly up the eastern side of Wilpeena pound, across the Flinders range and then head north over Parachilna to Leigh Creek where there is a huge coal mine.
The flinders are huge, majestic, red/orange coloured and at the moment surrounded by green. Heading north we see Lyndhurst from the air, then Marree and the teardrop railway interchange where you used to change from narrow to standard guage. Dean our pilot points out the Stryzleckie track heading out to the east, the Birdsville track to the north and Oodnatta track to west, and then there it is – the blue shimmer of Lake Eye South.
LES is 80% full and looked wonderful, and was so different to Lake Eyre North which only has 20% water and is surrounded by a salt crust. LEN also had a huge expanse of pink algae which when swirled about by the wind looked amazing. The deepest the water gets is 1 meter but most of it is about 1 foot deep and at the deepest spot it is 15 feet below sea level. As it is very sensitive to wind you get wonderful patterns swirling over the surface and different colours depending on how wet the salt crust is. A truly awe inspiring experience.
Back in the plane we head south and fly over the opal slag heaps at Andamooka, the yellow tinge around Olympic Dam uranium mine, Roxby Downs where Dean (Cassie’s brother) is working so hard, and the painted hills. These are a series of low red hills with splashes of white sandstone showing out and looked really spectacular. Unfortunately the camera didn’t focus properly so we lost all those photos – which is really upsetting. We fly home down the middle of Lake Torrens, the 2nd largest salt water lake in Oz. It has a green algae tinge so looked quite a contrast to LEN but also had some wonderful salt ‘beaches’ and patterns.
We then get up close with the western side of Wilpeena pound and do a lap around the circumference – absolutely stunning at sunset. 6.5 hours later we have a perfect landing back at Rawnsley.
Saturday sees us set of at ground level – first to Wilpeena, which we found very disappointing from over commercialization, then off on the Bunyeroo gorge road which restored our enthusiasm. The Flinders ranges are full of gorges and old ruins from where people originally settled, built a stone cottage and tried to make a living. There are still quite a few stations (mainly sheep) around the area, but they cover a huge area and most also have camping grounds or tourism ventures of some sort. We wander off to check out all the sights at lookouts etc and end up having lunch at Yanyanna Lookout.
It was so different to Old Ketchowla homestead – a friendly young magpie who wanted to share our food, ants by millions and 6 car loads also wanting to see the view. Travelling on the Bunyeroo gorge, Razorback ridge and Brachina gorge are awe inspiring in their size, colours and shapes; as was my first wildflower - gorgeous purple flower on a small grey leaved shrub.
Hans Heysen painted many pictures from Aroona station where his hut is still standing, but the main stone house has only a base left. The spring here is 30 feet above surrounding land and according to the man who got down and levered up a board on its cover the water is 2 feet from surface. You wonder how, when the surrounding area is so dry. We can get the caravan in here so will be back for a break. The ABC range is amazing – 26 smaller pointed mountains in a line. Nearing the Blinman road we pass by a grave for 2 year old Emma Smith. It seems the area was a stop over point for teams bringing wood from Blinman to Burra mines. You wonder how poor Emma died; and that the grave is still well cared for.
Stopping off at Stokes Hill lookout we chat to a Victorian couple about the bronze image of pound they have there and soak up the 360* views. After much searching we find the Cazneaux tree – there were some wonderful river gum trees that could have been just as famous.
Nearing home we come across a wedding party having their photos taken with pound as backdrop, and 200 metres on they were taking photos of men in undies for Aussie blue ads. The late afternoon light would have made them something special I’m sure. The photos that is - male model was a bit weedy!
25/3 We head off down Moralana scenic route past Elder range and through Blacks Gap – another aweinspiring place. We pass the variety club bash vehicles on the road and learn that they are staying at Merna Morna station.
Heading up road we meet the Leigh Creek coal train – it wasn’t 3 kilometers long but had 3 engines, 120 coal trucks and a flat top. Of course John wanted us to get a photo of the 3 engines and line of coal bins so he took off along a dirt track along the railway line, with me hanging on for dear life trying to get out the window to take some photos. Hope they are good pictures.
We take another look at Brachina gorge from western side and have lunch alongside some amazing rock formations and colours; before heading into Parachilna, where the menu took J’s fancy – Roo, Emu and Camel.
For a town way out Blinman has some nice B & B cottages, gallerys and café and of course an Anglican church on a hill overlooking town.
While J was clamboring over the rocks trying to find other rock etchings I survey my surrounds and come up with a natural bonsai tree which we put J's cap next to so you can get an idea of its' size. There are some wonderful trees in the creek - nothing like the ones in Otway NP. The road in must have been burnt recently as it was like a park; there was no debris on the ground just green grass and pine trees - amazing.
We have to move on to SA Eyre Peninsular because this file has got so full it is taking ages to do anything...
