Wednesday, 12 June 2013

No 7 - SA revisited 2012

Still Heading East -
7/10 J wants to go through the Gawler ranges but we have had such conflicting advice about the road we decide to leave the van and do a day trip instead. Our stop for a loo break in Minnipa is ?interesting and we decide to go on to Wudinna and stay the night there.


 The park manager tells us to drive out to Turtle Rock and Mt Wudinna and the surrounding area, so at 3pm we head off forgetting that we are on daylight saving and it is only 2pm really and it gets a bit hot. In the space of the last 3 days we have lost 3 hours and the body hasn’t adjusted properly. You have to climb halfway up Mt Wudinna to be able to really see Turtle Rock so I decide to do that.


 Make it to a nice spot with a lovely view have a rest and you guessed it decide to go all the way up – all 80m of it – yes at 80 metres they call it a mountain. What was even more surprising was my ankle didn’t even hurt. The top has a survey marker on it and some great 360* views. After a rest and checking out the shrubs we head down a different way. (This one is a sandhill acacia) Hopefully we lost some weight today. We go into Pygery Rocks on the way home – the National Parks have tied the gate up with a bit of baleing twine with a lump of fibro tied on the end as a weight – unbelievable and so very healthy. At another gate in the National Park the chain is held in place with a skull!.




Monday 8/10 and Shannon is back at work today after her maternity leave so it will be interesting how she gets on or maybe how Liam gets on with only Grandma for the whole day. He has changed so much which I guess you do when you grow from a newborn to a 1 year old. Harley had his first birthday while they were holidaying at Lakeside so it was interesting to imagine Liam in his place. They both walked a few days before their birthdays but I’ll bet Liam is twice the size – don’t know where he gets it from as the Gordon side are all thin as is Darren’s mum and siblings and Bob’s brother and sister. We leave the van and set out on a very good road. Mt Allalone is just that – all by itself and then we enter Gawler Ranges National Park and the road changes to a 4WD track which J loves.
 Our first stop is the Kolay Mirica Falls – no water in sight but amazing. The Rhyolite rocks are like sheer sentinels watching over a small chasm. Exploring the rocks we find some lovely little flowers growing out of the cracks. The park is supposed to be home to 225 different plant species, 33 reptile, 3 frog, 126 bird and 18 mammal species. 






We saw a few different plants but the only other living things were crows, 3 emus and an interesting snake – it had a light brown body with a darker head and a 4 inch black band about 6 inches from its head. On further investigation we are not sure if it is a western taipan or a juvenile king brown snake but I’m glad we let it go its own way. The track from here was lots of fun for the driver but he didn’t get bogged or need 4wd. We came down Mattera track and into old Paney homestead where Mrs Humphreys and her husband lived in a 4 room stone cottage with their 11 children. 3 bedrooms and a kitchen that definitely would not sit 13 people around a table – so they must have eaten meals in sittings. Out the back we found some small shelters that we could only surmise were pig stys. 


This was the only place where we met other humans – 3 car loads so we moved on and ate our lunch amongst lots of wildflowers at Policeman’s point. A very poignant reminder of the hazards of life were the graves of Sara and Joseph Humphreys who died aged 3 and 7 in 1850 & 60’s. Further on we found another grave for a 20 year old – interesting that he wasn’t buried next to the other two. Paney became a pastoral property in 1850 and remained so until 2002 when it was proclaimed a Nat Park.



Passing the stone dam – stones pushed up out of the earth that have formed a small dam in a small gully – we head into the Organ Pipes. They are amazing too – solid tubes of rock pushed up out of the surrounding earth so many millions of years ago. One section looked like lead pencils stacked in a pot, another was a sloping waterfall but the remainder looked like organ pipes so they were appropriately named. We could have spent more time here but a few car loads arrived and there just wasn't enough room on the track. Definitely worth visiting and we head up to the campground at Yandinga to see if we can get the van in – yes so we will be back. 


By now it is starting to rain so we skip going to visit Pildappa rock, Yarwondutta rock, Tcharkuldu Hill, Poondanna rock, Corrobinnie Hill or Peella rocks. Where do they get these names from? Also in the surrounding countryside are Waddikee rocks, Kyancutta hill, Kappakoola hill, Pinthaput hill, Cocata hill, Kolballa hill and Pordia hill. (If mountains are 80m high guess how high the hills are) Winding our way home we pass Bachelors Corner – could have only been inhabited by a bachelor as it was a mess, had an interesting hay stack.

Heading east on Tuesday we stop off in Kimba the midpoint between Sydney and Perth, where they have a giant galah and some iron statues of Edward John Eyre and one of his aboriginal helpers. 


Feeling very brave I head off down a track in the direction of some caves only to discover they were 6 feet away and about 3 feet high. The Lions club is very active here and have a big sign commemorating the halfway place and also a camping ground and park, next to the swimming pool, that has shaded areas, electric barbeques, toilets and a playground. The town seemed alive and doing well, with an assortment of businesses, sporting clubs, churches and well kept houses. One thing that really stood out were the bottle brushes growing along all the streets – all the one type but they had the most glorious deep red flower and were in full bloom. 

The iron ore mines around Iron Knob are huge and the piles of rock are massive – couldn’t tell if they were mullock heaps, ore piles waiting for shipment or the sides of the mine itself but it will never be rehabilitated regardless of what they might say. Passing through Port Augusta we head for the Horrocks Pass and Wilmington. When we headed east from the gulf you can see the range in the distance and the land in front looked flat – how deceptive it can be – Darby had to start working long before we got to the range – but the views heading down the other side were dramatic. 


After camping on the side of the road we head into Orroroo the next morning. A tourist sign advises of a big gum tree so we go to investigate and it is a big river gum – 10.89m around 2 feet above the ground and estimated to be over 500 years old – just the sort of tree you want to hug – I didn’t this time just photographed it and some very innovative tin horses in the main street.                                                                  


We’re going into Peterborough to check out where Tony went to primary school and found the school though it looks very new. We send him a photo and head off down town, where they have a train and a large area with paving stones etched with the names of workers who worked on the railways here. It is freezing cold and as someone is missing a phantom comic we go into the newsagent where I find a museum of paintings etc about the railways and early Peterborough. They also have a big teddy who needs a name.


Lunch was a pie and hot drink in a café – pies weren’t hot and John’s coffee eventually arrived, after he queried it, about 30 minutes after I’d finished my tea. Next time we are here we will go to the bakery – sort of spoils the day. Tony replies that he is on retreat with Bill and Ray at James Byrne, and is the big cement ditch still at the front of the school and is the oval still there – his great sporting career started on it, so we go back and photograph the ditch and while parked on the wrong side of the road taking photos of the kids on the oval the local constabulary stop us. We tell Tony that John nearly gets arrested for taking photos of kids for a priest. All good fun. Not sure why this was so memorable though!


We have to stop off in Burra at our favourite butcher for some more saltbush lamb shanks and the young butcher remembered us – big bouquets to him. Not only will we be back for the mouth watering meat but the service is fantastic. We aim for a free camp at Tarlee but when we get there it is in the main street in front of post office and really just a car park so we keep going. There were no more free camps so we end up going to the caravan park in Gawler – which was fortunate – it was freezing and we could have long hot showers and put the electric heater on in the van. We later learnt that it snowed in Peterborough and Burra the next day which was why it was so cold. The caravan park had some of the loveliest roses growing – all the ones I stopped to smell were the fragrant ones too.
Thursday 11th and we have to be out of caravan park at 10am and don’t have to be at our farmsit till 3pm so we head off down the road and end up in Birdwood. It is a lovely scenic drive through the hills to get here and the town is surrounded with big trees, gardens and misty mountains – it is lovely. Trying to keep out of the cold wind we check out an art gallery and second hand shop before heading back to find needles road in Williamstown. It is amazing how the gps doesn’t have a road in its index but when you drive down the road the gps puts the name on the screen. We made it – and the look of relief on Liz’s face when she opened the door was worth it. They have had some ?interesting people in the past so she was glad to see us – she must be mad heh! Being introduced to Maddie – an aged cat who has had a stroke and is a bit wobbly in hind legs was a sedate affair after the joyous pandemonium of meeting with Robbie the staffy, and an older Mille. Quickly going over the feeding regime for Chucky the emu -  yes another one – and the hens and white fantail pidgeons and fish pond we head inside out of the cold. Bill had built the log cabin 30 years ago and extended it later on. We later discover that the logs are just a cladding on the walls and the extension has aluminium cladding which detracts from the appearance a lot. The dogs and cat all live inside so that should be interesting? We have to live in the house so we can hear when Millie needs to go to the loo in the middle of the night. We have a few mishaps before we get into the swing of hearing the right noises in the night. Bill and Liz seem very nice people – he works for Holden in the paint department and she is a part time school teacher and tour operator for Tour Barossa and is a live wire.
Saturday sees us head for the Mt Pleasant markets, which is another lovely drive to the showgrounds where the Farmers Markets are held. They weren’t as extensive as the Angaston ones we went to, but had a decent array of fresh vegetables, meat, bread, cakes and biscuits, jams and chutneys, some wines and coffees. We bought some lovely yoghurt and tempting cupcakes along with fruit and vegies. Our plastic cards wouldn’t work in their atm so we were a little limited. Leaving Mt P we saw a sign saying Swan Reach and headed that way. Dad would have had a fit at all the Pattersons’ curse growing in the paddocks but I thought it looked pretty, as was a lone Gazannia growing the edge of road. 


Getting to Walkers Flat we did a tour of the town looking for places to buy as J decided he would like to live there. The two fibro places we saw on the riverbank were both over $400,000 when we looked them up on the internet later – so we might give that a big miss. We headed out of town and ended up in Mannum – a riverboat town. The two ladies in the Information Centre were greatly amused when we asked where we were as we were heading for Swan Reach and hadn’t made it. Seems we should have taken the left turn comming off the ferry over the river – but oh well we will do that another day. We spent an hour talking to them about our respective travels around the country before heading home, through some lovely hilly countryside, for a quiet drink on the verandah with the dogs.



Monday 15th and we head over to Gawler to do some shopping and have a look around – large town/small city with lots of old stone homes and lovely gardens. The streets are lined with a lovely salmon flowered gum which are all in flower and look wonderful. Tuesday and Wednesday were pretty cold so we stayed indoors and ventured out on Thursday to go back to Birdwood to visit the National Motor Museum – sponsored by Holden but full of an assortment of cars, utes, hundreds of motorbikes from over the last 125 years. After spending 3.5 hours walking around and my ankle was ready to be amputated so we headed home. Helen our camp host in Millstream had told us about laundry balls and we were lucky enough to find some when we were in Perth. Our second use of them still had lots of soap suds coming out of the clothes and regardless of how clean we think the clothes are the water ends up absolutely filthy. These balls have soft spikes and holes and inside are some ceramic beads – the idea is that they change the water to very soft water which opens the fabric weave to let the dirt out – so they are environmentally friendly and they last for 6 months before you have to replace the inner beads. They say you don’t have to rinse either as you don’t use any soap. You can use them in conventional washers too so we will have to see how they go and pass on the info. I’ve now used them twice with rainwater and am astonished at the colour of the water at the end. My little washing machine used 50 litres of water (30 to fill up) and I topped up 10 litres twice.  Mind you I have to put the washing machine out in the hall way and the drainpipe on shower floor so I end up cleaning the shower afterwards. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal at Lord Lyndock when we were here 6 months ago so we go back and it is just as good but our favourite young waiter is having the night off. At Shield Estate we buy a carton of sparkling shiraz as it is the best one yet, and some merlot as it was on special too, I also liked their Riesling (I don’t normally like it but this one wasn’t so sweet).
John finds the Kapunda Celtic Festival advertised on the internet so we go off in eager anticipation of some Scottish/Irish culture and find a marquee in side street where 2 girls are playing fiddles and a few stalls selling junk jewelery, fairy floss, hot dogs you know the stuff. We sit down to listen and hear Graham Dodsworth sing some of his own folksongs, then Shibion Owen comes on playing a harp and she is brilliant. She sings lots of well known tunes in Scottish, Welsh, Irish, and Japanese as well as English and has a very pure voice and is a joy to listen to. The last couple we hear play the guitar and flute and a few of the tunes I know – don’t know whether J knew them or not he slept through it!!!
Coming home through Greenock and Tanunda we stop off at the Tanunda cellars to restock and then call in at St Hallets Winery for some tastings. Not bad but nothing sensational.

On Sunday 21st there is a church service in Williamstown so we venture off and meet with some locals – 9 of them. There are 5 churches in parish and only 1 minister and 1 retired priest who uses reserved sacrament so they each do 2 services per Sunday and the other one is Morning Prayer. Over coffee and cake we regale them with some of our travels. Like most of the parishioners we’ve met they are all older than us – one was 93. Afterwards we head off to Murray Bridge for a barbeque lunch with Jim and Heather who have invited Peter and Val, other friends of Murray and Cassie’s so we have a very enjoyable afternoon discussing all manner of things caravan. Jim and Heather had collected their latest van the day before so we all got the grand tour. It is a lovely van with full ensuite and wm, leather lounges and dinette but only had one kitchen bench. After having two I don’t know how I would go with only half the space. It makes a lot of difference and now that the solar panels seem to occupy the bed that bit of extra space has gone. We seem to be accumulating a lot of stuff and someone wants to buy more. We come home with an electric hotplate that Jim doesn’t want anymore but it gets stored outside the van. Heather had prepared some very nice salads one with pumpkin, orange sweet potato, feta and pine nuts was very moreish. Then my diet was ruined with a chocolate and cream pavlova – all very yummy. After 7 hours and goodness knows how many bottles of red wine I get to drive home to two frantic dogs and a cat who thinks her throat must be cut. We stay home on Monday and Tuesday to keep them company and venture off on Wednesday to see if we can find Swan Reach. Stopping down the road to photograph some small parrots John saw when walking the dogs, we meet Max the shearer, that Liz had told us to contact if we had any sheep problems – Oh I forgot to mention we also have 5 ewes and 5 lambs to keep a count of. I think the ‘parrots’ are musk lorikeets and they are very pretty and love the nectar in the trees. We take the ferry across the Murray and stop to marvel at the cliffs along the edge at a couple of lookouts. Swan Reach isn’t as big as I imagined – hotel, takeaway, general store cum post office, tyre/service station and quite a few houses, but we have a lovely lunch at the pub overlooking the river. Whilst watching the ferry go back and forwards we rekindle the idea of taking a houseboat for a few days to drift up and down the river and make up a list of the people we think we could share a week with – so be warned you may get an email one day. Mind you we won’t be back this way for 2 years at least so it is something for the future. Our destination on the way home is Henschke winery where Kate stocks up every Christmas. Now we know why – J found the best red wine he has ever tasted in a bottle of 93 Giles Vineyard Pinot noir and I loved the smell of Tilly’s so we will be back here. Tilly’s vineyard is a Semillon/Sav Blanc/Riesling/Pinot Gris/Chardy.  I also liked the Innes Vineyard pinot gris and Joseph Hill Gewurztraminer. John liked the Henry’s Seven Shiraz/Grenache/Viognier/Mourvedre blend and the Tappas Pass Shiraz. We just might order a box or two to be sent on but where to send it to? They don’t let you taste any Hill of Grace Shiraz but at $595 for bottle of 2007, $850 for bottle of 1994, and $1275 for magnum bottle of 1995 vintage you can understand why.
27th Liz and Bill are home this afternoon and as Domain Day are advertising a sale we head into Williamstown after lunch to see what is on offer and come home with cases. I get a dozen sav blanc and some Chardy and J has a carton or two of Merlot.
28th and Linfield Road Winery have Oysters in the vineyard today so we leave the dogs in the care of their owners and head off for a lovely lunch in the sunshine. Lots of oysters, good wine and a cheese platter what more could you want. When we couldn’t eat anymore we head down to Birdwood where they have an antiques and collectables show on. It was a lovely drive but not many antiques on show, so we wander around town looking in various furniture shops before heading home to start packing up.



29th and Liz has got us 2 tickets (for price of 1 - $95) for her wine tour today so here we go. First stop pick up the bus (and meet her boss) then it is around town to collect the other passengers (9) and off we go starting at Langmeil which is in a lovely setting and the wines are good too. It was here that a forensic scientist from Denmark asked if we could go to Peter Lehman’s as he had been buying his wines for 20 years. It wasn’t on Liz’s list but we talked her into it and he was thrilled. Another couple on the tour also hit it off with us so we ended up having a great time. Think the younger ones wondered about us when the men kept giving Liz a hard time. My notes from Langmeil give ticks to a 2009 Sparkling Ondenc Cuvee, the 2012 High Road Chardy and Barossa Valley Viognier, and a sparkling shiraz. John tried a 2010 Valley Floor Shiraz before and after going through an aerator with the comment that the aerated one was very nice and smooth. The 2009 Blacksmith Cab Sav got an mmmmm. Mind you the reds are $30 and the whites $20-$30 bottle.
At Peter Lehman I liked the Art ‘n’ Soul Pinot Grigio and a Layers White with lots of lovely fruit notes. His sparkling shiraz was not as nice as Langmeil’s. John loved the 2009 Futures Shiraz, 2008 Eight Songs Shiraz and the 2009 VSV Ruediger Cab Sav, but did not think much of 2009 VSV 1885 Shiraz and at $60 bottle that’s ok.
At Turkey Flat Vineyards I found the 2011 Butcher’s block White (a Marsanne, Viognier/Rousanne blend) similar to sav Blanc and very enjoyable as was the sparkling shiraz. John liked the Butchers Block Red (Shiraz/Grenache/Mourvedre) and a straight 2010 Mourvedre to be very good while the NV Pedro Ximenez a rich luscious wine best served chilled got a big mmmmmmm. (All in the $30-$40 range) Then it was off to Grant Burge for lunch and more tastings. We tried a Pinot Gris and Summers Chardy and bought a Dolcetto Shiraz Frizzante to have with our cheese platter out on the lawn. It was very nice and relaxing. Having to move on we liked the Block 8 Sparkling white at Lambert Estate and the Black Sheep Cab Sav and came away with a bottle of Choc-a-bloc. A fortified Tawny Port base seeped in chocolate and it is divine, and it comes with a page of recipes for you to try. By the time we got to Villa Tinto my tastebuds were wrecked but after a few glasses of water I couldn’t resist their desert wine which isn’t as sweet as most so we have also got a bottle of it to savour at a later date. Then it was back to town to drop off the others and on our way back to bus depot we called in on Ross Estate to buy Bill a bottle for Christmas and of course we had to try some to make sure they were ok. We didn’t seem to be rushed but that was 7 wineries and lunch in 9 hours. A wonderful day deserved a reward so we gave Liz a bottle of wine as a thank you.

 30th and we bid goodbye and promise to arrange our trips so we can come back in April & October and sit for them again. At Levi park in Adelaide our neighbour tells us of a good deal for lunch at the Sussex Hotel up the road so instead of unpacking the van to get lunch we head off and my marinara pasta was sooo goooood. 

Then it was time to tackle some demons and head up through the Mt Lofty ranges. We stopped at the lookout for a few photo shots but John wouldn’t go near the fireman’s memorial or let me take a picture of it, but that was ok we are here. Matthew Flinders climbed up here too when he was discovering things. Driving around the ranges we find the Botanic gardens and old Government House (but it isn’t open-only Sundays) in the Belair National Park and some wonderful views over the countryside. The people still haven’t learnt - there are houses everywhere in the bush with no clearings that we could see – yet they expect firemen and soldiers to go in and fight bushfires every time they happen. Some very delicate yellow flowers growing on very nondescript bushes beside the road cheered me up.



31st Today we catch the bus into the museum and spend several hours wandering around looking at everything from whale bones to Antarctic explorers. It is a very good museum and well worth a look. They also had a photographic exhibition which was fantastic and it has inspired us to buy a better camera to see if we can take similar photos. I am not going to sit for 4 days in a swamp just to get the right shot mind you but they had some great underwater photos. Next to it is the National Wine Centre where we have a look around – nothing too exciting – have a bottle of wine with lunch – nothing too exciting – and come away disappointed. Oh well you can’t win ‘em all. Tonight will be different we are going back to our favourite Nepalese restaurant ‘Nemaste’ in Unley for dinner. It doesn’t disappoint us – the food is great once again. This is one to be visited if ever you are in town. The food is spicy but not hot. We still haven’t been to Ayers House Museum so will have to make a note for next year.


Going home via Woodside to restock our cheese and chocolate stash and then Gumeracka to the Big Rocking Horse to get some Christmas presents for the Grandies is a lovely drive and waiting for us is a new clutch of ducklings.



3rd November sees us touring around Waikerie, a lovely little town on the Murray river with a very active Lions club. They have a large park with all manner of Lionine things.

Crossing over the river on the ferry we turn in on old Cobb & Co route to the ‘Overland Corner Hotel’ and then on the back roads to Monash, Renmark & Loxton where they have a large museum complex with an interesting hut made from mallee roots and a huge mallee root on display. Next door is a 150 year old pepperina tree on the banks of the river.



Finding the Lions park – you can’t miss it we see their ‘Tree of Knowledge’ – a flood marker – and the big pelican at the entrance to the caravan park. While sitting on the banks overlooking the river we are treated to several Murraylands Yellow Rosellas eating the grass seeds nearby. 




On leaving town we pass the Loxton Estates Wine vats – they obviously make heaps even if I hadn’t heard of them before. We make a note to try to find some in a bottle shop. Heading home through Berri we see more big vats, and stop at a road side stall where we buy the most wonderful apricots. Haven’t had any this good since I left Stanthorpe. George & Loraine in the van next door tell us that church is at 9am so we join them there for a service with a biker priest. J is in heaven! and they have a long talk.  After morning tea we head to Cadell where we stop at the second hand shop to drop off the paper towel dispenser that we have taken off the wall because the towels keep vibrating back inside it, and spend an hour talking to the couple running it. They have spent several years in NQ and really enjoyed their time there. This makes us even more enthused for our house sit in Malanda.

 Our destination was Blanchetown where we have a 3pm appointment with Burk Salter Wine and Wetland tours. They do it in a 1927 Chevrolet truck along part of the old Cobb & Coach road from Sydney to Adelaide, and it was great. Greg was full of information about the wetlands, the history of the farm (has been in the family for 3 generations) and their vineyard. Afterwards we get a cheese platter to enjoy while having our wine tasting – all for $10.00 each!! We got a good half a glass to try with each wine and when they ran out of different whites before reds, Greg filled my glass up with the chardy I liked and kept it filled while John tried more. I had to buy some to take home – we must have drunk 3 bottles.



We found a photographic studio in Waikerie with some wonderful pictures and spent some time talking to Paul Whites father-in-law who was in charge for the day. Pity we couldn’t fit any in the van, but we will have to come back when we get to retire permanently! The lady at the information centre told us that the Lions club met at the RSL at 6pm so we head off only to find out that they didn’t meet there at all. However, they were having an afternoon drink so we joined them. When the RSL President found out John is ex Army he invited him into their museum to look at all the guns in working order!!! He was rather impressed. I just drank with the guys at the bar and then at 6.25pm we left to go to the Bowls club to the Lions meeting which was on there. Of course they wanted to know all about us and Drayton Country and we received invitations from 2 couples at our table to come and stay on their farms. Of course they wanted to know all about us and Drayton Country and we received invitations from 2 couples at our table to come and stay on their farms. The tourist information centre have compiled several drives around the countryside visiting a variety of different places – usually the river, bird watching, eateries, wineries and arts & craft shops which are very good and well worth the journey. John’s interest in houseboats saw us meeting up with a real estate rep to have a look over a boat moored in Waikerie. It was going for $75,000 and whilst she said the motor was in good order the bedrooms were rather small and smelly and there wasn’t much room on the front deck, so guess we won’t be buying it. Another one we found was on sale for $105,000 and it looked in better condition.  After this we headed east to Kingston-on-Murray who also have an active Lions Club and then into Banrock Station for lunch some more wine tasting and a walk around their wetlands. They had a very nice sparkling shiraz and a rose which you could have in sparkles too. I bought all 3 as I couldn’t decide which I liked best. We needed the walk down to their bird hide to work off lunch, and saw quite a few water birds. As we went to leave a long brown snake was coming along the boardwalk towards us, so making noise became a priority and he slithered below the deck. We did a hurried walk out of there.







To get to the Glue Pot reserve you pass a pig farm with lots of big sheds. I couldn’t work out what they were until I got out to open a gate and then the smell hit. We walked around the reserve and didn’t see many birds but I guess it was early afternoon and they were all having a snooze. There is supposed to be 190 species of birds, 50 reptiles and 12 species of bats here. The camping ground didn’t look too enticing which was a pity. Seems snakes are the go for today.



9/11 The brochures tell us of a morgue museum in Morgan and intrigued we head there. It is on the banks of the river next to the ferry and was built in 1886 to cater for bodies that died upstream and were transported to the cemetery by boat. IT was quite fascinating with high wooden shutters for ventilation I guess, and a ‘body’ laid out on the table. We have a leisurely lunch on the banks of river watching the ferry go back and forwards and then it is time to hit the road again. Our afternoon stop is at the butchers in Burra where we stock up on saltbush lamb shanks and their divine pork.




As it was so cold last time we were in Peterborough we decide to stay tonight and have a look at the steam train museum by night. They do a show with lights etc where you sit in an old railway carriage and watch a ‘living’ movie going on outside in the roundhouse. The effects were rather good and story seemed authentic. Well worth going to see. The caravan park here had a painting on the shower block of an old time picnic group which was very good too.




Broken Hill is our destination and you know you are out in the sticks. The towns? you pass through are very run down and untidy, but BH itself is very clean. After a quick familiarisation tour around town we visit Howard William Steer’s gallery where he has some wonderful quirky paintings and postcard sized ones to take home. We spend a while talking to him as he paints in the room next to the display area and like all good bushmen he can tell a yarn or two. His quirky sense of humour waits for you at the front door.

The old slag heap from original open cut mine has a café and Miners Memorial on top of it and you get a great view over the town, even if it is a bit hard to get onto the park bench. There are numerous paintings and artifacts on sale as usual, but nothing jumps out to say ‘take me home’. After lunch we wander through the Miners Memorial where you can read of the people killed each year. Mining still isn’t safe today.





We couldn’t find an operating Anglican Church only the one that was for lease. The hall was for sale and the school is now a craft place and the rectory lived in, but it was rather sad.





On display in BH is a huge picture which forms the backdrop for a desert scene portrayed in front of it and is truly spectacular!  There are 100,000 saltbushes, 20,000 trees, 20,000 small stones, 1000 large stones, 3000 clouds, 1500 hills and the 12 sculptures which comprise The Big Picture, the world's largest acrylic painting at 12m high and 100m long. You experience the sensation of 'walking into a painting' while having the impression of being in the actual Outback. The artist had an amazing feel for composition, perception, reflection, depth, shadow & light. You want to walk into the landscape or touch the feathers of each bird. A picture may say a thousand words, but this painting will leave you speechless! 



12/11 We’re in Mad Max country today looking around Silverton. There are a few houses here but most buildings are empty but good repair as they are used in all the movies. We look in 2 art galleries and then have lunch at the hotel where they have backed two trucks together and put a stage between them. Outside Kidman’s old butcher shop we find a donkey in the shade of the verandah and another old one walking up the street to see what was going on. They were both very quiet. The shop is now a gallery (was closed) with a tin camels head sticking out the side of the building. 





Going for a drive across the Mundi Mundi plain we see lots of horses grazing in the paddocks and then come across the Umberumberka reservoir. A virtual oases in the middle of desert.
 At the Daydream mine there are 2 ponies who also live on the verandah in the shade – they liked to bite so you had to be on guard. This was one of the original mines and is now a tourist attraction as the guide will take you down to where they mined.



Back in town we find Pro Hart’s gallery and spend some time in there trying to figure out some of his paintings. Would never buy any as they are rather expensive and not to my taste but other people there raved about them. We did like the roller!


We have been told to go out to the Living Desert at sunset so venture out and it is amazing. The reserve is 2400 hectares with numerous walking trails, aboriginal shelters, story poles and quartz quarry, flora especially Sturt’s desert pea, fauna (red kangaroos), viewing hides for bird watching, an old prospectors mine and claim markers, along the rocky gullies and lookouts. They have put large granite boulders on top of a hill and had artists carve them into forms. Some were a bit strange but each had a sign telling you the story behind it. It was quite breathtaking especially when the sun was setting. On the walk up the hill I found some more round holes for Murray to explain!






On our way down the hill we came across a rock that seemed to say what you can do God can do better.



After setting up camp on the banks of the Darling river at Menindee (wouldn’t that be a good name for a song) we discover another brown snake living in the holes of bank 2 feet from our awning peg. He decides to move on and goes for a swim out to some trees growing in the water 20 feet from the bank, then slithers up onto a horizontal branch for a rest before swimming back to the shore a few yards further up thank goodness. With the number of little black cormorants swimming around fishing for supper there must be plenty of food in the river. They were like synchronized swimmers – go 10 feet dive down, come up swim another 10 feet dive down again and they all did it. In some groups there must have been 100 birds and they came past every afternoon. Another bird that has us intrigued looks like the night heron but is speckled.





We have lots of native hen, apostle birds, a rail and willy wagtails come to visit and some are quite tame. I guess they get used to having campers around. The white faced heron was very wary of anything that might pinch its dinner.





After a windy day we had a branch suspended in mid air which looked weird, but it was actually caught on a spider’s web. Sunsets were a treat each afternoon as the colours reflected in the water were lovely.



20/11 After our weeks rest we venture into Menindee – small town in the middle of orchards. You drive for half an hour across desert plains and round a bend and there are orchards all green (irrigated) in front of you. After lunch at the pub we buy some rockmelons and grapes and head back along the road to Wilcannia. They also grow a lot of stonefruit and grapes.


We come back into BH as the road to Mildura is dirt, and we still have a few touristy places to see here. This time we find Jack Absalom’s gallery and he has our sort of paintings – landscapes and a few faces but no abstracts. While here we see their jewellery display and end up buying a ring with lots of white opals.
 It’s David’s birthday so we call him and get the details on life in Sydney. Lilly is counting the sleeps (17) till we get there.
Then it is back to Victoria where we spend a few days beside the lake in Hopetoun before the Christmas festivities in Geelong. This time I manage to walk all the way around the lake and find some more spots for us to camp at next time if the powered ones are taken. We have several catchups with Murray & Cassie over dinner and see John & Sandie at the shop.  Driving over to Yarra Glen to meet Malcolm & Jane is very pleasant as there is very little evidence of those dreadful bushfires, but Malcolm takes us around the house and shows us where the fire came to – 3 feet from 1 wall. A wooden retaining wall just a few feet from the house was burnt and Mark came out to rebuild it for them. Their garden is looking very nice but is not what it used to be – they are too old to restart everything. We had a very nice day talking to them and also saw Malcolm’s book he created on computer and then had printed which has given us some ideas.  
Flynn is having his 10th birthday and we are invited to join them all in Anglesea for dinner. It is lovely seeing Ben & Jane and the boys again as well as meeting Jane’s mother, sister and grandmother. We gave Flynn a set of blocks that you stack up 4 wide and then try to take one block out from the bottom and put on top and then keep going to see how high you can go before it all topples over. This kept everyone on the edge of their seats for some time when John & Flynn were playing. Afterwards I had a go with Rio and Tamas but we weren’t too good. Tamas loved John’s beard and swung off it several times. Too soon it was time for cake and bed. Rio wanted us to promise to come back for his birthday party in May but alas I doubt we will make it, so will have to try to organise it another year.


Thursday 6th was June’s 85th birthday and her children and spouses joined her for dinner. Cassie had been to the restaurant, as it was where John had his 60th, but still John got lost getting there, so there was much laughter before we entered. Kaye and Ian came down to join us and a merry night was had by all.

We leave the next morning and have a pleasant drive (if that is possible on the Hume Highway) when the car goes into ‘limp home mode’ 7 klms north of Albury. It is a long wait for the NRMA to come and collect us, but he takes the van into town and drops us at a nice little park close to some shops. We walk down to the local for dinner and have a very nice meal before walking back in the fading light at 10pm! J rings the Mitsubishi dealer first thing and they say to come down and they will try to find out what the problem is. I walk to the Health Food shop and stop off at Battery place on way home to see if someone will come and check our batteries as something is not working correctly. He promises to come when he shuts the shop at 11.30am and does so. His findings are that both our batteries need replacing so he goes off to get some when J turns up with the car fixed! It seems that if you are doing x kph at x revs, going up x hill, with your tongue in x position the car will spit the dummy. It was a simple computer fix, so now we are on the road again and will get to Sydney tonight albeit a bit late, so we miss seeing the kids but go to Brewhouse and have lobster for dinner with David. We spend the next few days playing with the kids and having fun. Jayden loves the slippery slide and Zahra the trampoline and they all fight over the swings and cubby house. Little did we know when we bought the cubby for Lilly that it wasn’t going to fit 3 small people let alone a granny or poppy, but we all have fun.  





A big day is on for the 13th – we have gym in the morning with a swimming lesson in the afternoon and our Graduation from Preschool at night. We are always amazed at how coordinated Lilly is at gymnastics but seeing her on a surf board in the swimming pool and then doing the full length (25m I guess) was something.

Peter & Lindy join us at the school assembly hall for the Graduation Ceremony where they all wear gowns and mitreboards! But they are all well drilled and it all goes off smoothly. They enjoy singing their song very much and Jayden & Zahra join in with their own words.
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Then on the 14th David has a day off and we all go to Luna Park. Narelle takes lunch but it still costs $92.00 for fuel, tolls, car park fees and 1 small bag of fairy floss. We look after Jayden & Zahra while Narelle and Lilly go down the big slide in a bag several times. Then it is time for the twins to have a go on merry-go-round and do some exploring on foot.




Lilly wanted to go on the roller coaster - it looked terrifying and it was, so after she recovered it was onto more sedate things like an American jeep. 


After a few more rides we head home to see Lilly in her new school uniform and then bid them farewell. 




Up the Putty road to Grey Gums Café where a BMW car club was having a show and shine, is a lovely drive – lots of tall trees and lush greenery.


We are in contact with Steve to see where we can meet up and decide on the First Fleet Memorial at Wallabadah. We get there first and spend some time looking for a Fryer as Beth says that there was one on the first fleet – only one we can find is a woman Charlotte who changed her name to Prior. Also found a Morton woman Mary Ann and her son Joshua – I don’t remember her in our family history but will check it out later. When Steve arrives we get to meet Tracey who is very nice, and catch up with the 3 Frost boys. Of course our couple of hours chatting turns into dinner, after which S has had too much to drink to drive on so the boys have to put up our tent and they all sleep here the night. It is a groggy start to the morning; - even the woman in van 50 meters away comments that they mustn’t have seen each other for a while.



They head off to Sydney and we go up to Glen Innes and down the range to Lawrence where we spend the night with Kevin & Joyce and have a lovely time catching up with all their news.


17th December and 364 days after we left Qld we cross over the border near Rathdowney and take the van up to Bill & Yvonne's in Laidley. The council in their wisdom have put a power pole and directional arrow sign right in front of the gate we use so it took a lot of manoeuvring to get the van in and we did some damage to the clutch because it smelt and wouldn’t work later on when we went down to Qld National for dinner. It seemed to be fine next morning when we drove to Brisbane to see Mother for her birthday. She was much the same as when we left and not interested in us only Liam.
We move into Kate’s in Springfield on Wednesday and go back to Laidley on Friday to collect the gear we left behind. We have 2 cats, 2 fish and 2 chooks to look after so it shouldn’t be too onerous. She also has a swim spa which is lovely and relaxing and we have a swim every day.
Christmas Eve has us feeding animals early and heading over to Zillmere for the night. After a lovely dinner we chat with Yvonne till the midnight service. The Archbishop attends all 3 Christmas services and so do we – he must think we are rent-a-crowd. After the last service we head over to Mt Ommaney to join Barb & Shannon and the 2 boys visiting Mother. This place isn’t quite as morbid as usual because the staff are in cheery moods and most of inmates have gone for day. Then it is back to Shannon’s to open the presents and enjoy lunch before filling the pool for the boys to play in.


Bill & Yvonne call in for lunch on Sunday 30th on their way to Laidley and we have a good time chatting.
New Year’s Eve sees us at Thomas Day at Qld Rail Museum in Ipswich which was fun. They had put faces onto old train engines and had the Controller from TV show entertaining the crowd. Tyler was too scared to have his photo taken so Shannon had to hold him and Liam slept through in his stroller. Wandering around the display Tyler saw a large model train set up and wanted to get in and play with it. Unfortunately he couldn’t understand that it wasn’t allowed so he cried for next hour when they left and went home.



 We stayed on and saw the travelator which moved trains from one shed to another – today it moves people only. The workshops are still being used and we saw a young woman making the mushroom buffers that fit on front of trains. When you compare the power station there to the monstrosities we have today you know where we went wrong.


Exhausted we head home to watch the tennis before the evenings activities.
 Now you will have to go to Qld 2013 for more news on where we are and what we are up to.