When the sun left the sky we headed into the café for a buffet dinner which wasn’t anything special, and then had a drink and went to bed. The day trips haven’t started yet so we have to travel overnight and learn what the cabins are like – ok, 4 bunks with ensuite. I woke about 1pm with the boat bouncing around a bit so we must have left Port Phillip Bay and entered Bass Strait. Wasn’t too bad as I went back to sleep and woke at 5.30am – just in time to have a shower before heading down to car and off we went – bit of a wait in queue for Quarantine people – but nothing too painful. You can’t take any fresh foodstuffs or plant material and dirt into Tassie. It seems strange all these quarantine stations at state borders – once upon a time we had check points at Qld – NSW border crossings but there is nothing nowdays. We make it out of Devonport and onto highway without any problems and stop for breakfast beside the road at Parramatta river, where the locals must have dumped their roosters because 7 of them came to greet us.
The countryside
is very green and once again we are into hills and valleys with little streams
meandering along. On through Hadspen, Perth, and Cleveland, and we stop for coffee at Avoca. Then it’s Fingal and St Mary’s and down the pass to the coast and into St Helen’s. We don’t have any
trouble finding Beppe and Peter’s place and set up house.
View from front of caravan
3/12 Today’s exploring starts at Binalong Bay with it’s red/orange lichen covered rocks which continue up the southern Bay of Fires coast to The Gardens – don’t know why it is called gardens - grass up to the rocks or sand beach. We found some nice camping spots at Swimcart Beach and north Cosy Corner which we will come back to later. You can understand why Cpt Cook named it 'Bay of Fires' - from a distance the orange lichen might look like fires burning on beach. The lichen starts out a very pretty yellow then deepens as it ages and dies.
View from front of caravan
3/12 Today’s exploring starts at Binalong Bay with it’s red/orange lichen covered rocks which continue up the southern Bay of Fires coast to The Gardens – don’t know why it is called gardens - grass up to the rocks or sand beach. We found some nice camping spots at Swimcart Beach and north Cosy Corner which we will come back to later. You can understand why Cpt Cook named it 'Bay of Fires' - from a distance the orange lichen might look like fires burning on beach. The lichen starts out a very pretty yellow then deepens as it ages and dies.
You have to keep to the Conservation area as National Parks are very expensive - $25.00 to enter and $12 per person per night. Some have toilets but that is all you get for your money. After checking out Grants Point and lagoon and Dora Point we head back through town to St Helen’s Conservation area, which has Steiglitz, Georges Bay, Akaroa and St Helens Point, Island and Light Beacon.
We don’t get too
carried away with names around here – there is Dennison Beach, Dennison Point,
Dennison River and Dennison Road all in same area. Then you go on to Peron
Dunes. Burns Bay had some nice sandy beaches but Beerbarrell beach doesn’t have
any sand or beer! We stop at a seafood warehouse and buy some fish and are recommended
to the fish and chip boat at wharf so we try out some of the worst food I have
ever eaten. Overcooked, fatty and chips have no salt and are soggy – very
disappointing.
Raining and cold for next few days so we don’t
do any more exploring until 6th when we head down coast road and
find some lovely sandy beaches around Great Oyster Bay.Many years ago there was a sales pitch in Victoria selling blocks of land at Dolphin Sands (bit like Russell Island Land Sales) so we venture down sandy road past lots of blocks for sale. Some have huts on but there doesn’t seem to be substantial houses anywhere. Eventually we find a beach to stop and admire the view! The Spiky bridge is much more exciting – convict built but don’t know why they would want to put sharp rocks on top of it. If you jump over the side it is only a short fall into the creek – but still very well made.
Dinner is with
Michelle and Shane at Hogsbreath which is in an old gas works in centre of
Hobart, then we have a cuppa at Bridgewater and play with Lotte, their new cat.
She is only 8 months old and has already had a litter of kittens but is now
desexed and bit sore. She is now in cat heaven and will be thoroughly spoilt
and very well looked after. It was good that they had been able to get another
pet so soon after Mars died (last Wednesday).
7/12 and we head to Geeveston to meet Miranda and survey our surroundings for next month – don’t know how I will survive – this cabin is freezing and wind is howling through cracks in walls and floors. It is a wooden 2 room cabin that has been extended onto and renovated? In keeping with theme there is no television, no radio, no clocks and a mirror in wardrobe door in bathroom. Hmmm. As it is sporting time we drag out her old tv that is used to play dvds and connect it up to J’s phone to watch the cricket. By Sunday night we have used up our download allocation and it all starts to go very slow and drop out.
Monday sees us go for a drive to get away from the place and after turning towards the water at Police Point we find Huon Salmon who do retail sales and what sales they are. Cold smoked salmon, hot smoked salmon, different flavours of smoked salmon as well as fresh pieces so we come away with 3 meals for $35 – considerably less that shop prices. They were very informative and pointed out lots of things about the ponds which are moored just offshore. There biggest problem is seals jumping over the sides for free feed so they have now got a ½ roof around edge.
Then it was on
to Dover and Southport – nothing like Qld’s city of same name – just a little
fishing village but had a very impressive Jetty House. Coming home we pass a
farmhouse right on the road with the most magnificent garden. There aren’t many
gardens around but those that have roses and geraniums have some very vivid
colours.
Wednesday
sees us give up on the television and head up to St Helens to pick up our
satellite dish and electric heater. Our 2 hour stop is at Oatlands, which is a
great example of restored Georgian buildings, including a 1829 Courthouse
(oldest in Aust) and an old grain mill which is very impressive. Callington
Mill was built in 1837 and uses the wind to grind grain to this day. Also in
the complex are the stables, and a stone store as well as managers house (now
café) and workers cottages. They have some lovely gardens nearby to complement
the old buildings in town. You can buy a bag of flour as a souvenir –
unfortunately we didn’t need any and I don’t have room to store it but maybe we
will use up what we have before we leave Tassie (if weather doesn’t improve
that may be sooner than March).
Everything is ok with the caravan and we collect up the goods we need and head off to Bicheno for lunch. There is a road to Campbell Town south of Bicheno which goes past Lake Leake so we take it and don’t bother giving the camping area a tick for future investigation. After our coffee stop we discover a park, with a swinging bridge, where they have kept the bases of old red gum trees and carved them into some wonderful sculptures depicting things of note in the area. One near the convict built stone bridge has the bridge carved into it. At the time a log truck was parked in the street so it was rather appropriate.
In another park we find a rather large red gum log which must have been 9 feet in diameter. Then it was a long 2 hour drive back to Geeveston.
Reading the local paper I see that there is an art show on in Kingston over the weekend so on Saturday morning we make our way over there. The Art Show is ??interesting. There are 5 artists showing their creations and some are there painting. One bloke had such dark, brooding, almost forbidding works it was really depressing. I know the weather makes things bit dull and gloomy but you don’t have to have all your paintings like that surely. There was only 1 painter whose works we liked, and the 1 woodworker had some lovely furniture items. Wandering around town we find a Japanese fabric shop which also sold papers and bits and pieces Japanesey. She had some lovely scrap pieces of silk, that I would have loved to stash away for a rainy day, but alas the rainy day was here and I had nowhere to store it and nothing on the agenda to make out of them, so they stayed behind. Seemed a pity as some were $3 per 100 grams and others $5. We enjoy some fish and chips on Kingston Beach while watching the kids race their small yachts.
After
stopping to explore Cygnet we decide to go around the bottom of peninsular and
have some great views across Glacier Bay, and Petchy’s Bay to Lymington. A shed across Glacier Bay looked lovely in reality but the photo didn't do it justice.
A roadside stall near Port Huon has raspberries for sale at $3.50 punnet (chinese container) and the farmer gets talking to J and shows us ‘Sleeping Beauty’ – the mountain range visible on a clear day. When you look at it from the right side is her hair, forehead, eyes, nose, mouth, chin, neck and chest on side profile – can you see it?
Everything is ok with the caravan and we collect up the goods we need and head off to Bicheno for lunch. There is a road to Campbell Town south of Bicheno which goes past Lake Leake so we take it and don’t bother giving the camping area a tick for future investigation. After our coffee stop we discover a park, with a swinging bridge, where they have kept the bases of old red gum trees and carved them into some wonderful sculptures depicting things of note in the area. One near the convict built stone bridge has the bridge carved into it. At the time a log truck was parked in the street so it was rather appropriate.
In another park we find a rather large red gum log which must have been 9 feet in diameter. Then it was a long 2 hour drive back to Geeveston.
Thursday 12th and I am ready to fly home - it was 3* at 6pm and it is SUMMER!!!
Michelle has us
booked in for eye tests on Friday 13th so we spend 1 ½ hours getting
the whole works done on our eyesight. The Optom Greg puts some drops in my eyes
to check the macular and says that they will be blurry for a while and he was
right – mine were still not focused at 3pm. After lunch at a Thai restaurant
with Michelle we head off again and stop off at the Mt Nelson Signal Station.
It was once part of flag flying signals sent around Tassie to let powers that
be know what boats were approaching. It was very windy and cold but at least
the sun was shining sometimes.
Reading the local paper I see that there is an art show on in Kingston over the weekend so on Saturday morning we make our way over there. The Art Show is ??interesting. There are 5 artists showing their creations and some are there painting. One bloke had such dark, brooding, almost forbidding works it was really depressing. I know the weather makes things bit dull and gloomy but you don’t have to have all your paintings like that surely. There was only 1 painter whose works we liked, and the 1 woodworker had some lovely furniture items. Wandering around town we find a Japanese fabric shop which also sold papers and bits and pieces Japanesey. She had some lovely scrap pieces of silk, that I would have loved to stash away for a rainy day, but alas the rainy day was here and I had nowhere to store it and nothing on the agenda to make out of them, so they stayed behind. Seemed a pity as some were $3 per 100 grams and others $5. We enjoy some fish and chips on Kingston Beach while watching the kids race their small yachts.
A roadside stall near Port Huon has raspberries for sale at $3.50 punnet (chinese container) and the farmer gets talking to J and shows us ‘Sleeping Beauty’ – the mountain range visible on a clear day. When you look at it from the right side is her hair, forehead, eyes, nose, mouth, chin, neck and chest on side profile – can you see it?
Few more cold
windy rainy days sees us staying inside watching the cricket – though BB King
goes out every morning and comes in, whenever opportunity presents an open door,
for a snack then goes out till dark – which here is after 10pm. It is light
around 4am so we are getting a taste of midnight sun. Weather Bureau are
predicting a few sunny days so we decide to go to the Air Walk on 18th
and Cockle Creek on 19th when it is supposed to be 35* in Hobart.
We wander around the Forest Centre in Geeveston
waiting for Barb to get to Mother’s so I can call and wish her a happy birthday
but she is not interested and just looks at the phone. Chatting to Barb she
says that she is going to ask Doctor to cut back on sedatives as Mother is not
with it at all – seems they put her on some pills to calm her down as she was
lashing out at everyone and they have worked well. It is so hard on Barb when
Mother doesn’t know her and just keeps nodding off. The Forest Centre is quite
interesting telling the story of Huon pine forestry in southern Tasmania and
has a lovely applique/patchwork quilt on display. Unfortunately it is behind glass near outside
doors so the light is reflected in photograph.
Thanks to the
Greenies most of logging in Tas has been stopped and thousands of people lost
their jobs. Towns like Geeveston which was a forestry town have had a backward
step but are trying to get tourism underway. They have a few wooden sculptures
around town with signs telling you their story which are very good but not much
else. There is a Sushi restaurant that is open for lunch on Fridays and
Saturdays only. The nearest hotel is at Kermandie a few kilometers away and
only a few cafes open during the day. This part of state doesn’t have any
motels but lots of B n B’s, and some cabins at Port Huon. I guess if nobody
comes down here during winter you would be hard pressed to make any money. The
southern furniture design and art centre could be the go as they had some
wonderful pieces made from Huon Pine, Tassie Oak, Sassafras, Black eyed Sassafras and Beech. A
Tassie Oak bedroom suite for $7500 took our fancy as did some bookshelves. We
will remember the design for one to hold our records when we settle down again.
Dr Oswald Kyle
Miss Jessica Hannabury, a milner who gave a lot to charity
Policeman Jim Watherspoon who served in Geeveston for 12 years after returning from WW2.
On
our way out to the Airwalk we stop off at ‘Look In’ lookout, and ‘West Creek’
lookout which both have lovely green vistas down river valleys. Except for the
Huon, the rivers here are more like creeks and it is amazing how such a small
amount of water can produce waterfalls. The valleys are quite deep which makes
the trees very tall and you get lots of tree ferns and undergrowth.
These two photos are of same tree - it wouldn't fit in one picture.
Monday
23rd and we defy the gloomy weather and head across Tasman Bridge to
Rosny and Lauderdale and down the peninsular to South Arm. Our destination was
Opossum Bay which turned out to be a little fishing village with some renovated
houses amidst new ones, but all of them were on minimal blocks of land and
those on the beach were right on it. (Wouldn’t be allowed in Qld but I guess it
doesn’t get too rough in a bay in the river mouth. There is only 1 shop so we
brave the fish and chips again and (they weren’t too bad) eat them on waters’
edge of Mortimer Bay.
Di Thorley (ex Mayor of T’mba) still runs the Lady Franklin Hotel which is next door to a great Pizza shop. It must have been a mill of some sort as it has an old wheel at the front and great murals along the walls.
Michelle had been feeling sorry for me with all the cold so she bought me a onesey - one piece pyjamas - in eyore style - wont I be the talk of caravan park when I go up to loo in this!
After a cuppa at
Bridgewater we decide to go down to Kingston Beach to see if we can see any of
S-H yachts coming in. They came up the other side of river so we would have got
a better view from Opossum Bay but still with the use of internet on phone we
knew that the ones we saw were ‘Venture 2’, ‘Spirit of Mateship’ the Qld RSL
boat, ‘Titania of Cowes’ a Brittish ship and ‘Chuzpah’. The RQYS boat was in
Sandy Bay but as it was getting too dark to see them properly we left for home.
Venture 2
Spirit of Mateship
I didn’t know whether I would make it up the hill to lighthouse but the prospect of southern ocean coming from Antarctica kept me going. I can’t imagine how the keepers and their families survived here in winter back in 1830’s. We checked out the museum before heading off on another dirt road to Cloudy Bay and then into Adventure Bay where there is a caravan park and a few shops. Along the way I see an old shed with some character so we stop in middle of road for me to go and get a photo - fortunately no vehicles came along - I will save it up for my "old Sheds" picture series. Maureen I am sure you could make up a short poem about it.
While driving around Adventure Bay we find a memorial to Captain Cook and a globe of the world which was more impressive.
We stop at the Oyster farm and get 2 dozen for tonights' dinner ($8 per bakers dozen) from a Bruny local who is going to the mainland (tasmania) for NYE. With time to spare we head to top of north island for some glorious views over Storm Bay from Dennes Point, and D’Entrecasteaux channel from Killora. Near the turn off to Barnes Bay we find a collection of letterboxes. Evidentally the mailman doesn’t do home deliveries here. While waiting for the ferry we buy a kilo of cherries for $9 and fill in time enjoying them.
Of course with all the moisture around there were lots of different fungi and lichens on the trees and fallen logs.
The
morning of friday 3rd we spend packing up and loading the car and
end up ringing Tony to see when Miranda was due. As he wasn’t collecting her
till 3pm and then they were going to collect Jellyroll we decided to leave and
get to St Helens before dark. This time our rest and stretch the legs stop is
at Ross, which also has lots of old Convict built Georgian sandstone buildings
and their bridge with its 186 intricately carved panels.
The council from Brighton to Campbell Town has some wonderful silhouettes in paddocks beside the road and some wag has put red santa hats on most of them. Lots of smaller councils could take this idea on board.
In the very early days Tasmania was administered from both Launceston and Hobart with the dividing line being the 42nd parallel. There are some very informative panels near the town hall with the details and a sculpture in a paddock on the actual line. This must be where the animosity started.
Ross also had some witty town planners back when too as the main intersection as the Town Hall on one corner, the Hotel on another, Courthouse and Church on the other two, and in the middle is the War Memorial.
We did a detour in Orford looking for a beach where we hoped to see Maria Island and of course got lost – but once again I found an interesting gate.
The second match was between Sam Stosur (top seed) and Kristina Mladenovic and also went to 3 sets with a tie break set.
Our destination
was Mt Field Np and then Lake Pedder. The start of walk to Russell Falls has
another stone picnic shelter and then a lovely walk through the trees and
ferns. Along the way we met another NP education ranger who had a stuffed
platypus to show everyone. It had died of old age (or so he said) and is used
to show people what they look and feel like. Its’ fur was lovely and soft but
the tail had very coarse hair.
Russell falls are 3 tiered and stunning. It was amazing how that little stream fed such a fall of water and then when we walked along the bank downstream it was still a little flow. It is also very moist here to promote the fern and fungi growth. The Filmy fern was just that and growing everywhere as were the Dickensonia Antarctica, otherwise known as Man Ferns or Temperate Tree Ferns.
Next to the information centre they have a large wooden possum from the 1 cent coin which looked quite good too. Seeing a sign for Mawsons’ snowfields we detoured up the mountain to see what a snowfield looks like without snow and it was surprising. There were low shrubby bushes and rocks everywhere so don’t know how they ski over it all. The guide posts on sides of road were 8 feet high and orange so the snow must get quite deep.
The road up here was built over 4 years during the depression and still has the post and rail fence along the side, though not in good repair.
After a brief stop at Lake Lenton (where Hobart gets its water supply) we head off through Serpentine range to Lake Pedder. You can understand why there was so much hoohah when it was first flooded as the original Lake Pedder was a small pond compared to todays’ lake. The 4 dams that make up the Gordon Hydro electric scheme hold 27 times as much water as Sydney Harbour.
What is also stunning is the Gordon dam wall – it is an arc and so high damming off a very narrow stream of water. They abseil off the top of it and when you look at the number of steps down to top of wall and then it is double that to the bottom of wall you would die climbing back to car park. They really picked the right spot to put a wall but why did it have to be so high! I can’t remember how deep the dam is – 58m at wall comes to mind, however the Hydro electric people only use the top 1.8m to generate power! It seemed a pity to have drowned all that area if it wasn’t necessary and when you see the lush vegetation along river valley downstream you wonder what could have been.
Monday was time
to do the washing – no dramas – have done it a couple of thousand times before
– just fill the machine up with water and put clothes in and turn it on. All
well until it was time to take clothes out and the water was freezing. We get
our water out of a 10,000 litre tank here and it must have iceblocks in it. Don’t
know how it cleans the clothes – the dirt must jump out to get away from cold.
Tuesday 14th we head off early to go
to Anson’s Bay which is at the top of Bay of Fires and there are more orange
lichen covered rocks around. It looked a lovely spot and we could have retired
there if it was a few thousand klms north.
I put the GPS on to get to Eddystone Point and Katrina took us up a very rough, sandy, rutted track which we terminated at a 4 foot drop with a perpendicular climb out the other side. After a few more trips up dead end roads we gave up and headed off to Gladstone. Of course a few klms on is a very well graded road to EP, so we did get there. They have a Lighthouse made from massive granite blocks. We guessed they were 3 – 4 foot wide 1 ½ feet high and 4 feet deep. It was 2 feet into the window glass and inside one was an A4 sheet on half the ledge. When you look at the height of it you have to wonder where they got all the blocks from and how they lifted them to the top? Amazingly it was still working – we could see the light rotating inside the glass at top.
The Lighthousekeepers house is still standing though it was hard to tell if it was being used for holiday letting. A shed nearby had our curiousity - we've decided it must be a fishermans shelter.
Then it was off to the north coast to have a look at Waterhouse Bay and camping ground which was disappointing so we headed into Bridport for a coffee éclair and cold drink, which we took down to beach. They have miles of beach here and the caravan park stretches for miles along the waters edge, so we might come back after school holidays finish - it was jam packed with campers. Stopping off at Legerwood to look at their memorials was wonderful. The townspeople planted an avenue of trees in 1918 as a memorial to all the local lads who died in WW1. In 2001 they were deemed unsafe and were to be cut down when the locals stepped in and got a chainsaw sculptur from Ross to come in and create something. They are very fitting – one has soldiers lying on trenches, behind sandbags etc and a lonely woman looking out. This is for a woman Tippy who lived here all her life and never forgot her fiancé who was killed in france in 1917. Each tree has a plaque and notice with the mans’ story on it.
Of course I said why don’t we go down this road and see if it takes us back to the highway and it did some 54klm and 2 hours later! I can tell you that the back road through Rigarooma and Pyengana is also very steep, narrow and windy. It is so narrow that a sign says ‘single lane road for next 11klms give way to all oncoming traffic’ – how you give way I don’t know because it is a cliff on one side and a 800m chasm on other side. Fortunately we didn’t meet any traffic at all so I didn’t have a heart attack. Ralph Falls don’t have any water falling down and we decided not to go into St Columba’s falls for that same reason – there was one stream with some water in it but it didn’t seem to be flowing so we figured there wouldn’t be any water coming over them. We nearly stopped at the ‘Pub in Paddock’ for a cold drink but decided to come back another day when the cheesery is open. We get home in time to watch Lleyton’s 5th set loss at Open and then Bernie had to withdraw injured.
The Governor who established the area decided that it would be good to make it a little England so all the buildings were white with red roofs and around a central village green. With the blue water and blue sky it really looks nice. Along the water’s edge are the 4 pilots’ homes (flats) with a kitchen, lounge and 2 bedrooms and an outside toilet; then the warden’s home and school house. Going around in horseshoe shape is boathouse, Coxswain’s house (now café), Then 4 boatmen’s flats (same as pilots’), 2 free settlers’ houses and the church.
Further down the Georgetown road are 2 Leading lights and the houses for the lightkeepers also in red and white colour scheme. Most of the houses are available for rent for holiday accommodation and I would love to stay in the lighthousekeepers’ home at the L/H. There is a large penguin rookery on the beach below the L/H and a path down to it so I’m sure that would be wonderful to see. Most of these buildings were built in 1830 – 1835 and are all in really good condition.
The pilot’s houses have been turned into a museum which has a lot of good artifacts from the seafaring days. A really old wooden tiller is outside front door as is an aluminium lifeboat from Vietnam War era.
This is one tree that had been felled by hand and has a platform built over the middle so you can stand on top of it in awe!
There was another one on the ground which was just as spectacular, but my favourites were the live ones still standing watch over everything.
Waratah seems an old town with some lovely buildings.To this day there is a big mine near here and we find the bitumen road ends at ‘Donga city’. Having lunch beside the road the fog and rain move in and I wonder at the wisdom of believing the weather bureaus prediction of a fine sunny 26* day!!!
After winding our way around the mountains and trees we arrive at the ferry over Pieman river at Corinna – it pays to read the sign first! The ferryman arrives and tells us that the road to B had several big landslides during the last big wet, and a couple of bridges were burnt out in the subsequent bushfires, and the government has no intention of spending so much money fixing the road when it is closer for locals to go to Zeehan to shop.
Crossing over Reece Dam we are amazed at the spillway – how much water does it hold?
Eyes looked at you from all sorts of places, doors to another world with metal dinosaurs and some concrete lobster chimney stacks.
Our first stop was the Tessellated pavement, which is fascinating – rocks have formed into square tile shapes. You look out over Pirate Bay – don’t know why it was called that because it looked so calm and peaceful.
Stopping at the officers’ quarters on Eaglehawk Neck we have a walk around the buildings, but I am more interested in the Dog statue so we soon move on. They have a bronze statue of a guard dog at the neck and he looks very ferocious. The dogs were also out in the water in Eaglehawk bay so that the prisoners couldn’t swim across the bay to freedom.
After such barbaric treatment we try Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen for some refinement. The arch as you can imagine is a hole eroded in rock wall and the kitchen is a steep sided inlet where the ocean comes roaring in. It was very calm so we didn’t see any violent crashing of waves here or at the blowhole. While we were there 2 coachloads of tourists arrived and most of them didn't even bother to walk around and look at everything. Don't know why you would pay to go on a tour if you aren't going to check out everything on offer.
20th Put car in for a service and went to MONA
(Museum Old & New Art) which had some very strange pieces that made you
think that some people were completely warped. Evidently that it why the owner
puts them on display – once an item gets a few likes he takes it away and puts
something more controversial in its place. One item has a very particular smell
and consists of large glass containers connected with clear tubes and it
represents a human digestive system going through the phases until something
brown pops out the end! Another more interesting piece was a waterfall of words
made out of drops, and a set of pulse lights that worked when you squeezed two
handles. There were revolting pictures – one of Burke & Wills with some
kangaroos licking his backside. Hundreds of different lounge chairs with each
one having its own ethnic video playing. Outside was a chapel of sheet steel
that had xray pictures mounted inside. Not really to my taste but it made you
think!
Once my ankles had died we waited for a bus to take us back to car which had had its service but we have to take it into Hobart next week to get some photos taken of the damage to see if Mitsubishi will cover the warranty. It was still pleasant when we got to Buckland so we looked inside the church which has lovely stained glass windows, but only has 1 service each month. At the front gate was a large tree which when felled they carved it into John baptising Jesus, which I liked.
Checking out the cemetery we find all one back corner is one family. At one stage there must have been something contagious because 3 kids die and then their mother – all in 4 month period. Ye old Buckland Inn is the only other notable building and has been so since 1831. They didn’t do meals so we didn’t stay but went into hotel in Triabunna for a very nice meal. It is amazing that you can get a really top class fancy meal in a little country pub for $20 and in anywhere touristy it will cost twice that for half the food. Two other guests came up to greet us and it turned out that they were at the theatre in Strahan and he played the ‘Governor’. They came from Bribie Island and wanted our photograph for their travel album. They were staying in one of the rooms at our caravan park so we went in to have a nightcap and chat with them afterwards.
Lunch was a picnic on Richardson’s Beach with a few Pacific gulls before walking around Cape Tourville L/H with a few Bennetts Wallabys.
On the way we passed a small waterfall high up on cliff face, along with a few big rocks covered with guano and a few shags – guess it must be a favourite resting spot. The moisture was enough to enable plants grow too.
Bishop and Clerk is the mountain on very edge of island. If the weather is calm they would go around to Riedle Bay for lunch but it was far too dangerous so we went inside Mercury passage and stopped for lunch at Shoal bay. I am sure it was just as lovely with their painted cliffs and it was very calm.
Fancy jumped in to see how deep the water was – but I wasn’t going to be wet and cold for the rest of day. After another superb lunch with lots salmon and camembert as well as other salads the pilot gave everyone a turn at the helm which was interesting and since we didn’t come to grief lots of fun.
Back at the jetty we had an hour to walk about Darlington looking at the buildings. If you are staying over you have to bring all your own food as there are no shops. Some of our passengers took the scraps from lunch as they were staying the night and coming back the following afternoon. That would have been good as there are several walks that you can do. One goes to sea cave and another to the bay where we had lunch. Another one goes inland to Mt Maria and if you have several days and very fit you can walk to the southern point at Barren Head. There are some interesting buildings at the end of a lovely tree lined avenue and lots of cape barren geese wandering around.
A sign on one of walls says it all, but I'm glad I didn't stay for afternoon tea - it might have been a little cold.
26th While car was being photographed and front shockies replaced in Hobart we walked down to Salamanca place to find the good earth shop, which sells Bruny Island cheese and Matthew Evans’ products. After morning tea we watched a chef prepare some salmon that tasted even better than it looked. Not being hungry we opted to do the red bus tourist drive around Hobart to see where we might like to get off and explore. The bus was full of American tourists who had only arrived this morning so we got to chat to those near us. When we arrived back it was 3pm and being a little hungry we popped into a pizza place and had a decent wait for a very nice meal. Next door is Mawson’s hut – a replica of the hut in Antarctica which you can do a tour through. It was also fascinating – how you could live in such close proximity to everyone for a year and for some of them 2 years baffles me. The building has a hall around three outer sides which housed the stores and the dogs and there are two inner rooms for living and Mawson’s bedroom/office, with the workshop against the fourth side. It was all heated by one little heater and had gas lamps for light. Some of the men had little shelves above their bunks for books etc.
We stop at the Ross bridge for the same reason, and as Fancy wants to go to the Wool Factory we pull up outside the Uniting church nearby. Out of curiosity I wander inside and am amazed at the beautiful carvings and woodwork, to say nothing of the paintings of Lords Prayer, Creed and Ten Commandments.
Outside the wood craft studio they have a tassie devil at his friendliest. I bought some lovely wool for Michelle’s dolls hair at the Wool shop, and Fancy bought a cute beanie for her granddaughter.
On our way into Bicheno we find our spot to watch the penguins near the blowhole, and do a tour of town before stopping at the hotel for dinner, which is very pleasant with its view over the Tasman Sea. We have plenty of time to see the penguins but only two turn up so at 10.30pm we give up and head home. After the first five possums are seen I decide to count them and by the time we get home we have seen twenty-six between guide posts. The two who were copulating in middle of road didn’t even bother moving. Some of them were very reluctant to move so we had a few quick brakings but didn’t hit any. It is no wonder that there are so many dead on side of roads.
28th Heading back to Tasman Peninsular we drop Fancy off at Port Arthur for the day and we go and explore Maingon Bay and Remarkable Cave. The view from boardwalk to Cape Raoul is stunning and is complemented by the flora growing nearby.
The steep climb down into Remarkable cave is worth it when you see the ocean through a hole in rock. There must have been over a hundred steps back up to the car. This is looking at the outside wall of cave.
Looking from cave seawards -
Inside the cave towards the sea -
While heading to our lunch stop beside Carnarvon Bay we have to go down Dog Bark road but there were no dogs barking at the time. Enroute to White Beach and Nubeena we pass a blue gum plantation. The owner had received lots of awards (according to a sign at gate) for his tree plantings and these will look stunning when fully grown.
With time to spare we head north to Lime Bay reserve which had some beaches but not much of a camp ground. Seeing some signs for Coal mines convict settlement 1833-48 we drive in to see what it was about – literally a coal mine worked by the Port Arthur inmates on detention. The solitary confinement cells were open for you to walk through and were barbaric. In some of the ruins you could see where the cell bars had been gouged into the walls. We found a convict made brick with its mark lying beside a path – amazing someone hadn’t stolen it. Don’t know what George Taggart did or didn’t do but he earned the nickname ‘useless’.
The kitchen chimney had a lean on it but J says that is to give better draw. The building used as a church had an elaborate decoration along the front and two rooms. We couldn’t tell if one room was for prisoners and one for soldiers etc but why else would you have two rooms. I have since been told that one room could have been chaplin's bedroom. The hospital had the better view over the water but I hope they had glass in windows as it would have been a bit drafty without it.
1st March We were
going to leave today but Michelle is coming over tomorrow so we stay home to
clean up and have a rest.
2nd After church we met up with Michelle
and Shane for lunch at our favourite scallop shop, and were chatting over a
cuppa when Barb rang in tears to say that the staff think Mother is dying. It
was 2.30pm and at 4.30pm Shannon rang to say that she had gone. It seemed so
surreal – I don’t know what I expected, but after 2 hours? We have to thank God it was over so quickly for her, but no one else got to say goodbye.
There were some more incredible flowers along the roadside as well as a pitiful excuse for a river.
We also found a WWi train carriage that had carried horses to the boats, with a horse in situ to show how cramped it must have been for them.
I should have looked for Mick Purcell's name - one of the good guys from Nashua, who had some big problems with the war. Maybe one day we will go back there.
Another old building in Seymour is the lockup - talk about man's inhumanity to fellow man.
Since we are back on mainland you will have to log onto no 11 to read the rest of our travels.
The
Airwalk is 619m long and up to 37.5m above ground. It was built to withstand
180kph winds and the cantilever will hold 12 baby elephants! It is surreal
walking around in the treetops, though it is not as high as the treetop walk in
WA, seeing wonderful big trees and ferns and some interesting fungi.
These two photos are of same tree - it wouldn't fit in one picture.
My
map shows a road through the back way (which turns out to be a logging road) to
Judbury and Ranelagh then into Huonville. Coming through Ranelagh we find a
strange building that is for sale so get onto the internet to look it up and
discover that it was an Oast house and is part of a very old farm that has been
converted into a BnB with 10 bedrooms, 9 bathrooms and 10 toilets? It is for
sale at $1.75 million if you have the desire to live in lovely old house with
income potential. At $175 per night with every room booked for 300 nights per
year it will only take 3 ½ years to pay off principal!
Trying to find
the seafood warehouse in Huonville we find their wooden sculptures which depict
a farmer, woman and girl apple pickers and a Boer War soldier, in memory of a
local lad killed in South Africa. On our journey home we see a wooden sailboat
coming up the river and try to compare it with Sydney – Hobart yachts that will
be coming this way in 10 days time.
It
is sunny when we set out for Cockle Creek so I am optimistic that my decision
to wear shorts will be rewarded. Our first stop by Recherche Bay is very pleasant
even if the water is a little on chilly side. Venturing on we find the free
camping ground on one side of creek and National Park expensive camping on the
other side. From what we could see the toilets were better on free side too.
Crossing over a very rickety bridge we head to car park at start of Fishers
Point Walk and explore there.
A
bronze statue of 3 month old southern right whale is rather large but cute,
what was worrying was the sign nearby which says that we were closer to
Antarctica than Cairns!!! Felt like it to. We go back to our beach spot at the
bay for picnic lunch and watch grandad fillet the flathead catch of his son and
grandson while they looked on. What was amazing was the seagulls didn’t come in
to grab the offcuts that were thrown into the water nearby.
Of
course we read that Mt La Perouse has snow on it all year round so when we find
a logging road heading in that direction we venture up to top of hill to see some
snow. (Bit like the snow we saw on Snowys from Bombala). = Look closely at mountain on left.
As
we arrived in Ida Bay the train was arriving back from its trip to the beach,
but as it is a 2 hour trip to go 14 klm round trip we skipped going for a ride.
It
was sunny the next morning so we decide to go over to Cygnet and along eastern
side of Huon river past Eggs and Bacon Bay (couldn’t find out how it got it’s
name) and got lost in Randalls Bay but did find Dad & Mum & Dave &
Mabel in a front yard. There were a few new houses among the old fishing shacks
that have been done up from here on towards Hobart.
At
Gordon they have an old monument to Captain DeBruni, Recherche and
D’Entrecasteaux who discovered this area back in 1700’s when they landed in
search of fresh water. North of Flowerpot is Grandvewe cheesery which made some
very yummy cheese from sheep milk. They originally imported milk sheep from
Holland but they died from cold in first winter (seems they wanted to be housed
in a warm barn) and then crossed the next lot with desert sheep from Middle
East who will live anywhere and they now have some tall, curly wooled sheep who
give lots of milk. Unlike meat sheep whose wool is very coarse and hard these
had beautiful soft wool.
We
had lunch at the Pancake parlour in Margate Train which was very tasty but took
ages to be served. They have a few train carriages lined up and converted into
shops – licorice, and American, UK, German and Dutch imported foodstuffs took
our fancy and we came away with some very nice dark chocolate coated ginger
biscuits, tinned guavas and licorice for him who likes the stuff. Around Tinderbox
we come across some canons in a park and have a better picture of Iron Pot
which we later discover is a 12 acre island that was once a farm before the
house was moved onto the mainland. Now it has a light beacon which the S – H
yachts have to go around before heading up the Derwent river.
At
Taroona is the ‘shot tower’ a 58m sandstone tower where they used to drop the
weight from above to fill the cartridges with gunpowder. Goodness knows how
many were injured during this exercise – can you see WH&S having a field
day here.
We encounter peak hour traffic in Sandy Bay and manage to see the
vacuum flask (Wrestpoint Casino) before turning away from all the traffic and
heading south.
Seeing a sign to
Fern Tree and Mt Wellington we do a quick turn and wind our way around the
mountain and keep going when we reach Fern Tree. About 1/3 way up the mountain
we encounter the fog and rain and it reminds us of going driving with Bill
& Jan when we got to Drovers Lookout in heavy fog. It clears at the top and
we have a walk around and then look over the edge towards Hobart and
see you guessed it – whiteout – very thick fog. It was 10* colder at the top
than at a lookout ½ way down too.
We team up with
Michelle to visit Richmond on Sunday and the sun comes out though it is still a
little chilly. Richmond is very old, has convict built sandstone buildings and
the bridge which is in all travel brochures. After checking out all the Antique
shops, the Teddy bear shop and having lunch we head off to the Wicked Cheese
factory to restock our supplies and enjoy a caramel nougat icecream. Yumm
We
drive around Rosny again trying to find the original farm buildings which house
an art gallery but couldn’t find them but do find Kangaroo Bluff where they
built a fort complete with canons to defend Hobart from the french. The trenches and walkways
are all still intact and it would be a great spot for a picnic or Happy hour
but not on this day – we hurried back to heater in car.
Government House
is visible across the river, from Lookout and looked lovely – will have to find
out if it is opened to public at any time in next 3 months.
Tuesday
is still gloomy so we decide to try out the ‘famous’ scallop pies at Petty
Sessions Café in Franklin and they were pretty good. They have a lovely setting
on the Huon river bank with lots of old trees and fishing boats moored in
river. Don’t know when they go to work as they didn’t move for the month we
were down here. Afterwards we checked out the antique shop but the model
shipyard had closed for Christmas and the Wooden Boat Centre hadn’t opened at
all.
Di Thorley (ex Mayor of T’mba) still runs the Lady Franklin Hotel which is next door to a great Pizza shop. It must have been a mill of some sort as it has an old wheel at the front and great murals along the walls.
We head off to
church at 7pm and meet another of the part time Priests - Elizabeth who is in a
flap because Neville has gone home ill and she has to work the cd player. Bruce
(previous priest) is in congregation so don’t know why she didn’t ask him to do
it. Bruce, was a member of a brotherhood, whose father lives in Geeveston so he
takes turn taking the service and we had met him on the previous 2 Sundays. He
was likeable but a bit strange – his duty was outreach to older generation in
Huonville, and had received several invitations for Christmas lunch but had
declined as he wanted to be on his own! We didn’t so at
9am Christmas morning we headed to Brighton Motel to collect our keys, and then
off to Michelle’s to spend the day with her. We had a lovely lunch with far too
much to eat and drink, and then Reggie and Phillip came home with Shane so John had a
long chat to them about old and new times. Sitting on the lounge afterwards to
eat cheese and biscuits with our cuppa kept me awake for a while, but we had to
leave at 10pm. It had been a long day for Shane as he had worked till 6am.
Michelle loved the cat bag I had made her and put in a request for a Gollywog
for her birthday so now I have to get the thinking cap on.
26th,
27th and 28th were spent flicking channels on tv between
cricket, tennis and Yacht race because it had turned cold again. It was 30* on
Christmas day and then dropped to 13* again – it’s unbelievable.
On Sunday Michelle wanted to take us to New
Norfolk to look around their Antique shops which had some great finds including
a Corio Whiskey jug from the days when Geelong distilled whiskey which I then
had to find room for in the caravan. They also had 2 Oast houses which I had to
have a closer look at and eventually we found ourselves in grounds of Corumbene
Nursing Home which is built around them. We didn’t go inside to find out how
they were being used but it was great to see them utilised. New Norfolk boasts
having the longest licenced hotel in Australia and an interesting bell tower on
St Paul’s Catholic church across the road.
Michelle had been feeling sorry for me with all the cold so she bought me a onesey - one piece pyjamas - in eyore style - wont I be the talk of caravan park when I go up to loo in this!
Spirit of Mateship
Titania of Cowes
At 7.30pm Wild Oats 11 came from opposite direction and local told us that they only ever stay for the required 24 hours and then leave for Sydney. As they arrived at 7.15pm on saturday it seemed correct, so we won't get to see it at Constitution Dock on Wednesday. It looked huge but I guess it was closer to our side of river.
Hobart is a
lovely little city that has retained their old buildings and not let high rises
spoil the skyscape, but one of the University of Tas buildings has me intrigued
– it has the strangest walls.
New
Year’s eve sees us heading to Bruny Island but not early enough to miss the
line up for ferry. We only have to wait for 1 trip across before it is our
turn. The marina at Kettering is very pretty with boats moored in blue water
and a few houses on hillside around the bay.
Our
first stop is at the lookout at the neck where we find a National Parks ranger
with a stuffed quoll and whale ?teeth to show visitors – the idea being to make
people slow down and take care of environment and not encourage feral animals.
Then it was up the lookout for the fantastic view along neck to south Bruny. It
hasn’t changed since we were here 4 years ago but still inspiring.
I didn’t know whether I would make it up the hill to lighthouse but the prospect of southern ocean coming from Antarctica kept me going. I can’t imagine how the keepers and their families survived here in winter back in 1830’s. We checked out the museum before heading off on another dirt road to Cloudy Bay and then into Adventure Bay where there is a caravan park and a few shops. Along the way I see an old shed with some character so we stop in middle of road for me to go and get a photo - fortunately no vehicles came along - I will save it up for my "old Sheds" picture series. Maureen I am sure you could make up a short poem about it.
While driving around Adventure Bay we find a memorial to Captain Cook and a globe of the world which was more impressive.
We stop at the Oyster farm and get 2 dozen for tonights' dinner ($8 per bakers dozen) from a Bruny local who is going to the mainland (tasmania) for NYE. With time to spare we head to top of north island for some glorious views over Storm Bay from Dennes Point, and D’Entrecasteaux channel from Killora. Near the turn off to Barnes Bay we find a collection of letterboxes. Evidentally the mailman doesn’t do home deliveries here. While waiting for the ferry we buy a kilo of cherries for $9 and fill in time enjoying them.
Sandfly we drive
through quickly in case there are any around – why do they give places such
names. We manage to stay awake to see in the New Year and then brave the cold and rain and head to Antiques and Collectables Fair in Hobart. An antique (1905) ring catches my eye and when J won't take the hint I buy it for myself. Am told that it is ruby and Spinel (which is same family as rubies and sapphires and in Crown Jewels) so when I get it cleaned it will be interesting to see if it is the same colour as my pink sapphire. Then we head down to Constitution dock to the TASTE - food of Tasmania - and have some overcooked seafood, before wandering around the berths looking at yachts. All but one boat have arrived and 2 were leaving while we were there. The Spirit of Mateship was so small compared to the big maxis. Perpetual Loyal and Wild Thing are SO big - they must carry an enormous amount of sail when you see the size of mast and booms.
With only 1 day left, on Thursday afternoon we brave the weather to go up to Harst Mountain NP. With all rain there were lots of little waterfalls along the roadside but nothing compared to the little stream that fed the falls just visible from lookout. It was wonderful as were the Tasmanian Waratah’s that the lookout had been named after.
With only 1 day left, on Thursday afternoon we brave the weather to go up to Harst Mountain NP. With all rain there were lots of little waterfalls along the roadside but nothing compared to the little stream that fed the falls just visible from lookout. It was wonderful as were the Tasmanian Waratah’s that the lookout had been named after.
Of course with all the moisture around there were lots of different fungi and lichens on the trees and fallen logs.
Across the road
is a stone picnic hut/shelter shed which was shrouded in mist and just needed
the fireplace to have a burning fire. Being excited by this view we head to
Huonville to Homehill winery where the waitress/shop assistant/ tasting steward
couldn’t have been more disinterested. We eventually get our 4 free drips of
wine to taste while she is busy drying glasses. We decide to buy Michelle a
leather bear and are waiting to pay when the phone rings and another employee
answers it while our teatowel wiperuperer keeps wiping away while looking at
us. If it hadn’t been an unusual bear for Michelle we would have walked out –
they need to get customer service operating if they want tourists to call.
There is a
pickers hut on the road near Castle Forbes Bay which is typical of huts that
apple pickers used to live in in days gone by. This one is in good repair and
has a lovely garden around it but oh the inside !! The bed is a slat that folds
up against the wall during the day so you can move around inside. When we were
here 4 years ago we went to Enchanted Wood and decided to fill in time and go
back again. They don’t have the fairy glen anymore but the wooden crafts and
furniture is still stunning as is the view. We ended up buying a huon pine wine
bottle stopper for us and a toadstool earring holder for Shannon – don’t tell
her it’s a birthday present. Shannon close your eyes and don't read that.
The council from Brighton to Campbell Town has some wonderful silhouettes in paddocks beside the road and some wag has put red santa hats on most of them. Lots of smaller councils could take this idea on board.
In the very early days Tasmania was administered from both Launceston and Hobart with the dividing line being the 42nd parallel. There are some very informative panels near the town hall with the details and a sculpture in a paddock on the actual line. This must be where the animosity started.
Ross also had some witty town planners back when too as the main intersection as the Town Hall on one corner, the Hotel on another, Courthouse and Church on the other two, and in the middle is the War Memorial.
There are also a
lot of restored buildings with the Barracks being used as a BnB – would love to
see inside it. John loves the old garage as they still have painting of Holden
radiator above the door. When we here last the building was a wooden furniture shop, but it didn't look like it was still operating.
We spend the
weekend watching the cricket which was great if you were an Aussie. While we
were driving around New Norfolk Michelle was so concerned about Shane Watson’s
groin which was the topic of conversation on radio, so she was ‘thrilled’ to
learn that it was ok now!
Tuesday 7th and someone was 21 for
the 3rd time, so he received lots of phone calls and messages. We
had a great chat to Lilly and David while driving to Bridgewater to have dinner
with Michelle and Shane. They were having coffee while waiting for the car to
be serviced – well David was Lilly was having a hot chocolate and loving it. On the road near Swansea is another old shed next to Great Oyster Bay so it got added to my character sheds file.
We did a detour in Orford looking for a beach where we hoped to see Maria Island and of course got lost – but once again I found an interesting gate.
Heading
down the coast on a gravel logging track we found 3 thumbs lookout where we did
get to see Maria Island and the Tasman Peninsular across Marion Bay. We are
going to come back with the caravan and spend some time here and hope to go
over to Maria Island then.
There were signs
of the dreadful bushfires at Dunalley last January but the ground was covered
with grass and most trees have new leaves shooting. We couldn’t find the ferry
at Dodges Ferry so headed into Bridgewater where Shane tells me there wasn’t
one. How did it get it’s name? Austins Ferry also doesn’t have a ferry? Reggie
joined us for a lovely dinner, complete with pavlova. Once again WH&S
intervened and we couldn’t light the ‘6’ ’3’ sparkler candles but they lit 3
candles for him to blow out.
We had seen ads for the Tennis and Michelle told us that the centre was good so we decided to stay an extra day and really enjoyed it. We had seats at the top of bottom section right on net and saw 3 fantastic games. The first between Estrella Cabeza Candela and Elena Vesnina (3 seed) had a 2nd set tie break and went to 3rd set.
We had seen ads for the Tennis and Michelle told us that the centre was good so we decided to stay an extra day and really enjoyed it. We had seats at the top of bottom section right on net and saw 3 fantastic games. The first between Estrella Cabeza Candela and Elena Vesnina (3 seed) had a 2nd set tie break and went to 3rd set.
The second match was between Sam Stosur (top seed) and Kristina Mladenovic and also went to 3 sets with a tie break set.
The
3rd match was with another young Qld girl Storm Sanders who took
Kirsten Flipkens (2 seed) to 3 sets of brilliant tennis. Our $10 tickets were
for the 4 day time matches but as it was after 7pm and we were a little
sunburnt we decided to head back to motel and dinner. The bottle of wine we had
over dinner must have mixed with the sun because we didn’t wake up next morning
until the cleaner opened the door at 9.15am, so we had a quick pack up and went
up to New Norfolk for breakfast.
Russell falls are 3 tiered and stunning. It was amazing how that little stream fed such a fall of water and then when we walked along the bank downstream it was still a little flow. It is also very moist here to promote the fern and fungi growth. The Filmy fern was just that and growing everywhere as were the Dickensonia Antarctica, otherwise known as Man Ferns or Temperate Tree Ferns.
Next to the information centre they have a large wooden possum from the 1 cent coin which looked quite good too. Seeing a sign for Mawsons’ snowfields we detoured up the mountain to see what a snowfield looks like without snow and it was surprising. There were low shrubby bushes and rocks everywhere so don’t know how they ski over it all. The guide posts on sides of road were 8 feet high and orange so the snow must get quite deep.
The road up here was built over 4 years during the depression and still has the post and rail fence along the side, though not in good repair.
After a brief stop at Lake Lenton (where Hobart gets its water supply) we head off through Serpentine range to Lake Pedder. You can understand why there was so much hoohah when it was first flooded as the original Lake Pedder was a small pond compared to todays’ lake. The 4 dams that make up the Gordon Hydro electric scheme hold 27 times as much water as Sydney Harbour.
What is also stunning is the Gordon dam wall – it is an arc and so high damming off a very narrow stream of water. They abseil off the top of it and when you look at the number of steps down to top of wall and then it is double that to the bottom of wall you would die climbing back to car park. They really picked the right spot to put a wall but why did it have to be so high! I can’t remember how deep the dam is – 58m at wall comes to mind, however the Hydro electric people only use the top 1.8m to generate power! It seemed a pity to have drowned all that area if it wasn’t necessary and when you see the lush vegetation along river valley downstream you wonder what could have been.
There were some Tassie Tigers lurking beside the road near Maydena but otherwise it was a very
loooong trip back to St Helens – arrived 10.30pm after stopping in Oatlands to
have dinner at the hotel. J had the largest pizza I have ever seen – because we
didn’t have lunch he reckons he was hungry – so he ate it all. I ordered a
prawn pasta dish that was supposed to have cherry tomatoes and pesto but didn’t
so it was rather bland.
Sunday 12th we went into church in St Helens and were a bit nonplussed with the way we were totally ignored. There was no one on sidesman duties so we didn’t know what books to take. Not much of a greeting from priest who didn’t do much – the LA took all service except sermon and communion. Bill note that she did the Absolution! Gospel and Greeting of Peace! And obviously does so at every service. We went for morning tea but the only people who wanted to talk to us were a couple from Launceston who were here on holidays. Afterwards we headed towards Bicheno to go up Elephant Pass to the Pancake Barn for lunch. This road is famous for the bends that motorbike riders love. It is certainly steep (our new altimeter says 1001m) and winding but only 10K long. When you got close to edge is seemed miles down to the tops of trees and then the trunks went out of view. The pancake special for the day was a smoked salmon, mushroom and camembert in white wine sauce and very very nice. They were at least a foot wide and completely covered the plate so very good value. We had to try a sweet one so shared a brandied apricots, cream and icecream one for desert. It was a short trip into St Mary’s where we eventually found the sign to South Sister Lookout. On the way we found Germantown and Dublintown roads, both of which were very narrow winding steep roads that ended at a farm gate so we figured both of these ?towns are no more. The lookout is at a Telstra tower and is very high up – unfortunately the surrounding trees have grown well and you don’t get a stunning vista but we got the message.
My little mudmap said that the road continued on and eventually arrives at
Scamander, Beaumaris or Diana's Lagoon so we kept on the dirt. It was a logging track
so reasonably wide but when we turned off onto Skyline Lookout it narrowed and
deteoriated rapidly. It must be hairaising driving a loaded logging truck along
some of these roads. One of the creeks had water in it but most were dry. After
4klm of narrow, winding, bumpy road we got to last 100m which was so washed out
we decided we had seen enough of the coast through the trees and kept on going
downhill. After another 20klm and 1 hour later we got to Beaumaris – then it
was definitely time to go home and watch the cricket on television – I didn’t
have to hang on to do that.
I put the GPS on to get to Eddystone Point and Katrina took us up a very rough, sandy, rutted track which we terminated at a 4 foot drop with a perpendicular climb out the other side. After a few more trips up dead end roads we gave up and headed off to Gladstone. Of course a few klms on is a very well graded road to EP, so we did get there. They have a Lighthouse made from massive granite blocks. We guessed they were 3 – 4 foot wide 1 ½ feet high and 4 feet deep. It was 2 feet into the window glass and inside one was an A4 sheet on half the ledge. When you look at the height of it you have to wonder where they got all the blocks from and how they lifted them to the top? Amazingly it was still working – we could see the light rotating inside the glass at top.
The Lighthousekeepers house is still standing though it was hard to tell if it was being used for holiday letting. A shed nearby had our curiousity - we've decided it must be a fishermans shelter.
A
short trip into Musselroe Bay was well rewarded with miles of unspoiled beaches
all to ourselves – didn’t even have a seagull to share our picnic lunch with. J
had a sleep while I watched the kelp laden waves crash onto the beach.
Then it was off to the north coast to have a look at Waterhouse Bay and camping ground which was disappointing so we headed into Bridport for a coffee éclair and cold drink, which we took down to beach. They have miles of beach here and the caravan park stretches for miles along the waters edge, so we might come back after school holidays finish - it was jam packed with campers. Stopping off at Legerwood to look at their memorials was wonderful. The townspeople planted an avenue of trees in 1918 as a memorial to all the local lads who died in WW1. In 2001 they were deemed unsafe and were to be cut down when the locals stepped in and got a chainsaw sculptur from Ross to come in and create something. They are very fitting – one has soldiers lying on trenches, behind sandbags etc and a lonely woman looking out. This is for a woman Tippy who lived here all her life and never forgot her fiancé who was killed in france in 1917. Each tree has a plaque and notice with the mans’ story on it.
Of course I said why don’t we go down this road and see if it takes us back to the highway and it did some 54klm and 2 hours later! I can tell you that the back road through Rigarooma and Pyengana is also very steep, narrow and windy. It is so narrow that a sign says ‘single lane road for next 11klms give way to all oncoming traffic’ – how you give way I don’t know because it is a cliff on one side and a 800m chasm on other side. Fortunately we didn’t meet any traffic at all so I didn’t have a heart attack. Ralph Falls don’t have any water falling down and we decided not to go into St Columba’s falls for that same reason – there was one stream with some water in it but it didn’t seem to be flowing so we figured there wouldn’t be any water coming over them. We nearly stopped at the ‘Pub in Paddock’ for a cold drink but decided to come back another day when the cheesery is open. We get home in time to watch Lleyton’s 5th set loss at Open and then Bernie had to withdraw injured.
15th Last
week at the tennis the stone came out of my garnet ring and as we had seen a
Jewellery store I dropped the ring in and it was sent away to be reset. Little
did I know that there is a manufacturing Jeweller next to surf store so when we
walked past on Monday I went in and dropped off 3 rings to be cleaned. My pink
sapphire and peridot rings came up lovely when we collected them 20 minutes
later. The old ruby and spinal ring I bought in Hobart had some claws missing
so I left it with Knaut to be fixed. He sent a message yesterday to say it was
ready and we were amazed when we collected it this morning. He had fixed the
claws and it was so sparkling clean it was hard to believe it was the same
ring. Talking to him he said that the stones are actually pink and white
sapphires and it was probably worth about $500 so that was good to know. We are
going to take the opal in to see what he thinks can be done with it, and I will
also take in the orange sapphire ring that I lost a stone out of and see if he
has one to fit it – have decided to get him to make a silver seahorse with the
opal set in its stomach. He had some lovely spiral pendants and filigree zodiac
sign settings so hopefully my little seahorse will come up like those. He has
promised that we will pick it up on 20th March so let’s hope so.
16th and I did a
mainland thing – thought we could do the 220klm to Low Head in 2 ¼ hours and
then spend the day looking around there, go to Georgetown for lunch and then
duck over the bridge to Seahorse Farm and Platypus world before heading home.
WELL it took 3 ½ hours to get there and we left Georgetown Lookout at 4pm. But
had a good day anyway – Weldborough Pass is more winding and steep than St Mary’s
and very lush and green with lots of tree ferns and tall trees. We could see
that there were trees but the fog had visibility down to 100m – fortunately we
followed a Reject shop red truck for 100klm and he seemed to know the road. Derby
is a decent sized town with a big Tin Mining Interpretive centre which we will
go back to one day. They have painted some rocks on the river bank – but couldn’t
figure out the meaning.
Outside Branxholm is a Tin Dragon Chinese Memorial which had rather inspiring words on it. It told the story of the Chinese tin miners in the area in 1800’s. There is a big chinese cemetery nearby.
Once we left Branxholm the road flattened and straightened out to Scottsdale which is a large place (by Tassie standards) but we have bypassed the main street so don’t know if they have anything Scottish or interesting. Low Head was settled in 1804 when they decided in Sydney to establish a settlement to deter the French from settling – it was the time of war with Napoleon so they were a bit paranoid. At Low Head which is on northeast edge of Tamar river estuary they built a lighthouse and a pilot station because there is a reef in the mouth of river and ships were being wrecked on it.
Outside Branxholm is a Tin Dragon Chinese Memorial which had rather inspiring words on it. It told the story of the Chinese tin miners in the area in 1800’s. There is a big chinese cemetery nearby.
Once we left Branxholm the road flattened and straightened out to Scottsdale which is a large place (by Tassie standards) but we have bypassed the main street so don’t know if they have anything Scottish or interesting. Low Head was settled in 1804 when they decided in Sydney to establish a settlement to deter the French from settling – it was the time of war with Napoleon so they were a bit paranoid. At Low Head which is on northeast edge of Tamar river estuary they built a lighthouse and a pilot station because there is a reef in the mouth of river and ships were being wrecked on it.
The Governor who established the area decided that it would be good to make it a little England so all the buildings were white with red roofs and around a central village green. With the blue water and blue sky it really looks nice. Along the water’s edge are the 4 pilots’ homes (flats) with a kitchen, lounge and 2 bedrooms and an outside toilet; then the warden’s home and school house. Going around in horseshoe shape is boathouse, Coxswain’s house (now café), Then 4 boatmen’s flats (same as pilots’), 2 free settlers’ houses and the church.
Further down the Georgetown road are 2 Leading lights and the houses for the lightkeepers also in red and white colour scheme. Most of the houses are available for rent for holiday accommodation and I would love to stay in the lighthousekeepers’ home at the L/H. There is a large penguin rookery on the beach below the L/H and a path down to it so I’m sure that would be wonderful to see. Most of these buildings were built in 1830 – 1835 and are all in really good condition.
The pilot’s houses have been turned into a museum which has a lot of good artifacts from the seafaring days. A really old wooden tiller is outside front door as is an aluminium lifeboat from Vietnam War era.
Georgetown is
the oldest town in Australia (evidently Sydney doesn’t count) and has some very
old homes and buildings. They have also chainsawed an old tree into marine figurines
etc but spoiled it by painting the dolphin and whale.
The mural on water tower was painted by the unemployed youth of area during the International Year of Youth and is a credit to them – don’t know how they painted the top but it looks great.
We stop at Mt George Lookout where they had a signal station back in 1800’s – you can see to Low Head from here and the semaphore pole is still standing. It looks antiquated compared to mobile phone towers next to it – but you get a fantastic view over the Tamar and Georgetown to Beaconsfield and Beauty Point. On a clear day you can (reportedly) see a mountain at Burnie – 80klms away.
Then it was time to head back to St Helens but we did stop at Little Plains Lookout for a view down Weldborough pass towards the coast. You wouldn’t have seen a thing in the fog this morning.
In a small farming valley we find an Anglican church - St Michael and All Angels which was in need of some TLC. The cross on one end has come adrift and is hanging upside down.
As it was after 7pm we decided to go to RSL Bistro for dinner. J had a steak with prawns and calamari on top which he said was great, but my crumbed scallops were dreadful. I don’t know whether they had been cut into 6 and then crumbed and frozen for 6 months or if they were minced and had ½ teaspoonfulls rolled in crumbs but they were the size of 5 cent piece and didn’t taste or look like scallops. After our bad fish and chips from the wharf we won’t be eating out in St Helens again. It was really disappointing as we had a salmon and brie pie and curried scallop pie with salad for lunch and they were mouthwatering. The scallop pie had 5 big scallops complete with orange roe and the salmon was in big chunks. Even the pastry was light and crispy. Both meals were the same price so who knows? We will have to see what the fish is like on west coast next week.
It has been in high 20’s early 30’s here since Sunday which has been very pleasant compared to the 40* being experienced on mainland but Friday dawned overcast and cold, and it tried raining overnight – didn’t do much – just made a mess of dust on car. J spent Friday trying to fix a broken wire in cable from solar panels to Anderson plug and then had a go at trying to find problem with caravan brakes – all to no avail so he went off to town to find an auto electrician. He had closed up shop early and doesn’t work Saturdays so we will have to hope that it is a simple problem that can be fixed on Monday. Why we had to leave it till now to start fixing things I don’t know – we have been here for 2 weeks and have to leave on Tuesday. I wanted to leave on Monday but we have a problem with the phone and can’t get it looked at till Tuesday – why didn’t we get it fixed 2 weeks ago!
The mural on water tower was painted by the unemployed youth of area during the International Year of Youth and is a credit to them – don’t know how they painted the top but it looks great.
We stop at Mt George Lookout where they had a signal station back in 1800’s – you can see to Low Head from here and the semaphore pole is still standing. It looks antiquated compared to mobile phone towers next to it – but you get a fantastic view over the Tamar and Georgetown to Beaconsfield and Beauty Point. On a clear day you can (reportedly) see a mountain at Burnie – 80klms away.
Then it was time to head back to St Helens but we did stop at Little Plains Lookout for a view down Weldborough pass towards the coast. You wouldn’t have seen a thing in the fog this morning.
In a small farming valley we find an Anglican church - St Michael and All Angels which was in need of some TLC. The cross on one end has come adrift and is hanging upside down.
As it was after 7pm we decided to go to RSL Bistro for dinner. J had a steak with prawns and calamari on top which he said was great, but my crumbed scallops were dreadful. I don’t know whether they had been cut into 6 and then crumbed and frozen for 6 months or if they were minced and had ½ teaspoonfulls rolled in crumbs but they were the size of 5 cent piece and didn’t taste or look like scallops. After our bad fish and chips from the wharf we won’t be eating out in St Helens again. It was really disappointing as we had a salmon and brie pie and curried scallop pie with salad for lunch and they were mouthwatering. The scallop pie had 5 big scallops complete with orange roe and the salmon was in big chunks. Even the pastry was light and crispy. Both meals were the same price so who knows? We will have to see what the fish is like on west coast next week.
It has been in high 20’s early 30’s here since Sunday which has been very pleasant compared to the 40* being experienced on mainland but Friday dawned overcast and cold, and it tried raining overnight – didn’t do much – just made a mess of dust on car. J spent Friday trying to fix a broken wire in cable from solar panels to Anderson plug and then had a go at trying to find problem with caravan brakes – all to no avail so he went off to town to find an auto electrician. He had closed up shop early and doesn’t work Saturdays so we will have to hope that it is a simple problem that can be fixed on Monday. Why we had to leave it till now to start fixing things I don’t know – we have been here for 2 weeks and have to leave on Tuesday. I wanted to leave on Monday but we have a problem with the phone and can’t get it looked at till Tuesday – why didn’t we get it fixed 2 weeks ago!
The weather bureau says it went from 16* - 17* today and it felt like it. Sunday wasn't any better so we stayed in and watched the tennis and cricket on television.
Monday 20th and we head into town early to get to Auto Electrician and grocer etc. We come home with the cable for solar panels fixed and some ideas on caravan brakes. Heading up to Pyengana we have a taste of 5 very nice cheeses and decide on a Ploughman's lunch and a cheese platter for 1 for lunch. The hunk of cheese that was on ploughmans plate was 4 inches wide and 6 inches long and the rest of plate was overloaded with food. We got to choose the 2 cheeses for platter so we had a carraway seed and a peppercorn one which were very interesting. We ended up buying a herb one and a chilli, chive and onion, and a matured cheddar that they are famous for. We made a big impression on it but still left some. Then it was up to St Colomba's falls to walk some of it off. It is about 10 minutes to walk through the ferns and trees down to the falls which are the second tallest in Tasmania at 90 metres.
We drove into Halls Falls but as my ankle was not good we didn't walk down to them but will note to come back here again.
21st We get away from St Helen's and head to St Mary's for lunch and just enjoy the countryside through Cambridge where there are 2 old buildings, but we couldn't even stop for me to take a proper photo so have one shot through car window as we sped past. We did manage to stop outside Evandale at the Gourmet Sauce Company that had some delicious sauces. We came home with a strawberry chilli one that had a very strong strawberry taste. Finding the free park in town we had a little mishap when the van collided with gate post on our way in, so now we will have to find a repairer before it rains too much.
22 – 26th January 2014 We arrive at Terry and Joy's and meet Jack who is to be our faithful companion over the next 3 weeks, and then spend the next 3 days on couch watching Tennis & Cricket.
27th January - Leaving Smithton we find someone waiting for the postman, before heading north to Woolnorth where they have an enormous windfarm (some 158 turbines) You can’t get to the coast here as all the land is owned by Van Deimens Land Company. Cape Grim is now the name of a big group of dairy and beef cattle farms, but is also the name of Cape off NW coast where they pushed several hundred aborigines off into the water to get rid of them in early 1800’s. You can imagine why the company doesn’t want people going there, but it is a pity that we can’t pay our respects to those who must have been terrified at what was going to happen to them.
Turning south through Marrawa and Arthur River, we stop in Ann Bay, which had a lovely sandy beach and great mural on wall of stock feed store, before venturing on to the Edge of World. A plaque really says it all - " I cast my pebble onto the shore of eternity, To be washed by the ocean of time, It has shape, form and substance, It is me. One day I will be no more, But my pebble will remain here, on the shore of eternity. Mute witness to the aeons, that today I came and stood, At the Edge of the World."
Couta Rock was our lunch stop, and we had the whole rocky beach to explore by ourselves, before checking out the fishermens' homes. One had an interesting roofline and another had a putting green on front footpath.
Boat Harbour Beach was where we decided we could have a summer house, it has a lovely sandy beach and the water wasn’t too cold. Sisters beach is nearby and not as lovely. There is a great bike ‘statue’ on highway near Boat Harbour. J would love to have him in front yard.
Monday 20th and we head into town early to get to Auto Electrician and grocer etc. We come home with the cable for solar panels fixed and some ideas on caravan brakes. Heading up to Pyengana we have a taste of 5 very nice cheeses and decide on a Ploughman's lunch and a cheese platter for 1 for lunch. The hunk of cheese that was on ploughmans plate was 4 inches wide and 6 inches long and the rest of plate was overloaded with food. We got to choose the 2 cheeses for platter so we had a carraway seed and a peppercorn one which were very interesting. We ended up buying a herb one and a chilli, chive and onion, and a matured cheddar that they are famous for. We made a big impression on it but still left some. Then it was up to St Colomba's falls to walk some of it off. It is about 10 minutes to walk through the ferns and trees down to the falls which are the second tallest in Tasmania at 90 metres.
We drove into Halls Falls but as my ankle was not good we didn't walk down to them but will note to come back here again.
21st We get away from St Helen's and head to St Mary's for lunch and just enjoy the countryside through Cambridge where there are 2 old buildings, but we couldn't even stop for me to take a proper photo so have one shot through car window as we sped past. We did manage to stop outside Evandale at the Gourmet Sauce Company that had some delicious sauces. We came home with a strawberry chilli one that had a very strong strawberry taste. Finding the free park in town we had a little mishap when the van collided with gate post on our way in, so now we will have to find a repairer before it rains too much.
22 – 26th January 2014 We arrive at Terry and Joy's and meet Jack who is to be our faithful companion over the next 3 weeks, and then spend the next 3 days on couch watching Tennis & Cricket.
27th January - Leaving Smithton we find someone waiting for the postman, before heading north to Woolnorth where they have an enormous windfarm (some 158 turbines) You can’t get to the coast here as all the land is owned by Van Deimens Land Company. Cape Grim is now the name of a big group of dairy and beef cattle farms, but is also the name of Cape off NW coast where they pushed several hundred aborigines off into the water to get rid of them in early 1800’s. You can imagine why the company doesn’t want people going there, but it is a pity that we can’t pay our respects to those who must have been terrified at what was going to happen to them.
Turning south through Marrawa and Arthur River, we stop in Ann Bay, which had a lovely sandy beach and great mural on wall of stock feed store, before venturing on to the Edge of World. A plaque really says it all - " I cast my pebble onto the shore of eternity, To be washed by the ocean of time, It has shape, form and substance, It is me. One day I will be no more, But my pebble will remain here, on the shore of eternity. Mute witness to the aeons, that today I came and stood, At the Edge of the World."
Couta Rock was our lunch stop, and we had the whole rocky beach to explore by ourselves, before checking out the fishermens' homes. One had an interesting roofline and another had a putting green on front footpath.
Temma was as
far south as we went before heading back to Sumac Lookout, and Edith Creek.
Today we saw lots of signs asking people to be on lookout for Devils as this is
one of few places where they are free of the facial cancer that has been
killing hundreds of them.
28th
January - We have a lovely drive over to Penguin, where
they have another great mural along wall of park with a rather large 'little' penguin.
Passing
the 3 Sisters and Goat Island, we do a quick tour of Ulverstone before heading
south where we ended up in Leven Canyon.
It
is rather spectacular with the river winding its way along the floor of canyon
so far below. There were some interesting fungi as well.
Gunns
Plains is a fertile area of flat land nestled amongst the mountains where they
do some intensive farming.
31st Flowerdale had an interesting sign at the front gate of a dairy farm which also showed that they were suppliers to Cadbury’s.
Our destination was the Lobster Farm, where we had a good time being shown around the ponds by volunteers. They also went to great lengths to get a rather large giant freshwater lobster out of his hiding hole to show us one up close and personal. I wasn’t leaving my bare toes too close to him.
They live for about 60 years so this bloke was quite old/young (60 isn’t old is it) and can get up to 3kg. These lobsters are only found in this area and therefore quite rare, so we couldn’t eat one for lunch but had a lovely meal which was also cooked and served by volunteers who are trying to get the place re-established as a tourist destination. On our way to Table Cape L/H, we find a house with a windvane on the roof! along with a commercial lillium farm next to some poppy fields.
The lilliums you buy have long stems so these were strange given that they were only 3 inches high – wondered whether these were first years and they grow bigger next year. They all seemed to be red with a few orange ones thrown in. One of the Lighthouse keeper’s sons drowned when he was 9 years and he has a lonely grave overlooking the water that claimed his life.
31st Flowerdale had an interesting sign at the front gate of a dairy farm which also showed that they were suppliers to Cadbury’s.
Our destination was the Lobster Farm, where we had a good time being shown around the ponds by volunteers. They also went to great lengths to get a rather large giant freshwater lobster out of his hiding hole to show us one up close and personal. I wasn’t leaving my bare toes too close to him.
They live for about 60 years so this bloke was quite old/young (60 isn’t old is it) and can get up to 3kg. These lobsters are only found in this area and therefore quite rare, so we couldn’t eat one for lunch but had a lovely meal which was also cooked and served by volunteers who are trying to get the place re-established as a tourist destination. On our way to Table Cape L/H, we find a house with a windvane on the roof! along with a commercial lillium farm next to some poppy fields.
The lilliums you buy have long stems so these were strange given that they were only 3 inches high – wondered whether these were first years and they grow bigger next year. They all seemed to be red with a few orange ones thrown in. One of the Lighthouse keeper’s sons drowned when he was 9 years and he has a lonely grave overlooking the water that claimed his life.
A
local farmer has developed his own wind powered generator and Terry told us
that there are quite a few around.
Boat Harbour Beach was where we decided we could have a summer house, it has a lovely sandy beach and the water wasn’t too cold. Sisters beach is nearby and not as lovely. There is a great bike ‘statue’ on highway near Boat Harbour. J would love to have him in front yard.
Rocky Cape
NP is in two parts, the eastern side left a bit to be desired especially the
roads, but the western side was rockier and more interesting to sit and look
out over.
1st
Feb Passing over the Black River near
Mengha, our destination is Dip Falls with some intriguing rocks. You wonder how
they were made in such perfect cylinders?
We
spend some time checking them out before venturing to the Big Tree. A 68m x 16m
browntop/stringybark, which must have been 500 years old.
This is one tree that had been felled by hand and has a platform built over the middle so you can stand on top of it in awe!
There was another one on the ground which was just as spectacular, but my favourites were the live ones still standing watch over everything.
After
fish and chips on wharf in Stanley I am rapt to spend time at Seaquarium
looking at potbellied seahorses along with cowfish, southern rock lobsters,
moray eels, gummy sharks, starfish, abalones and more seahorses. They were
incredible just hanging on with their tails or letting go and fins on back
waving frantically to move them along.
We drive
around town and find a bridal party having their photos taken amid the ruins of
convict barracks. The nut really seems to stand guard over the town. It is a
volcanic plug that covers 26 acres and hasn’t eroded away and used to grow potatoes
before making way for a chairlift and tourists.
3rd J has been most put out because the
‘Western explorer’ road has been closed and you can’t do an adventurous 4WD
trip to Corinna so we have to take the sissy route through Calder to Waratah,
where we find Philosopher Smith’s hut. He was a geologist who discovered tin in
the area. He didn’t have much of a house but at least his dog was warm (if it
was in it’s kennel) and he didn't have to go outside to use the loo. Calder is another ?big town with only 2 buildings and some nearby farmhouses.
Waratah seems an old town with some lovely buildings.To this day there is a big mine near here and we find the bitumen road ends at ‘Donga city’. Having lunch beside the road the fog and rain move in and I wonder at the wisdom of believing the weather bureaus prediction of a fine sunny 26* day!!!
After winding our way around the mountains and trees we arrive at the ferry over Pieman river at Corinna – it pays to read the sign first! The ferryman arrives and tells us that the road to B had several big landslides during the last big wet, and a couple of bridges were burnt out in the subsequent bushfires, and the government has no intention of spending so much money fixing the road when it is closer for locals to go to Zeehan to shop.
Crossing over Reece Dam we are amazed at the spillway – how much water does it hold?
After
nearly freezing with other Qld tourists at Mt Whaleback L/O on Pieman reserve, we
head back to Hellyer Gorge for a walk along the riverbank where Dad and 2 boys
were fishing for trout. They reckoned they could see them in water but I could
only find a collection of rocks.
Winding our
way home the back way we find a magpie on a very small power pole near
Monumana.
4th We had heard about Dismal Swamp and
decided it sounded like a place to visit – don’t know where it got its name
from but it was lovely amongst the trees and shrubs. It was a crater lake that
drains away quickly so is very lush. The owners had artists create statues etc
to fit in with the theme and there were some very good ones.
Eyes looked at you from all sorts of places, doors to another world with metal dinosaurs and some concrete lobster chimney stacks.
We
chose to walk down to the bottom but you could have taken a 200m slide. Even
the Huon pine frames for the shelters were magnificent. We were there for 2
hours and had to leave when they shut at 4pm.
Winding our
way home the back way we take a turn which means we take the long way and end
up seeing Irishtown from 'above'. This is mainly black and white dairy country
with all milk going to Devondale factory in Smithton. Terry tells us that most
farmers would milk over 300 cows and some up to 900!!!! They are all very
automated and the cows milk themselves 3 times a day. What would Dad think?
6th As it is nice and sunny we head back to
Stanley to look over ‘Highfields’ an historic property on the edge of town. It
was the original farm and has sweeping views over the Nut and Bass Strait and
some lovely old convict built buildings. We look over the house with its grand rooms
downstairs and small bedrooms upstairs. They couldn’t have had many children
because there weren’t enough rooms.
Sarah Island seems to have been an awful convict settlement for 12 years – you can’t imagine how one human being can have been so cruel to another. Then it was a drive around town to see the sights – pretty good from the lookout, though there were plenty of rotting boats and jetties that could have been salvaged for their timber or something – and then we were off to the Theatre to see a play.
The
Chapel is a stone building with some wonderful polished wooden pews, and the
schoolroom on first floor. Don’t know how the kids learnt anything – you would
have spent all day gazing out the windows.
The
stables were also very impressive and the barn/granary has been turned into a
conference centre where we spoke to a couple from Qld (where else) who were
setting up for their wedding on Saturday. The stallion stalls showed that male chauvenism was alive and well back then too.
On our way
into Smithton to get groceries we find the lookout and marvel at how close to
the water you are. In town you aren’t aware of water unless you head over the Duck river bridge to the pub or Woolnorth, but Bass Strait doesn't register.
7th As our time here is nearly over we
head to Burnie to visit the Makers Centre, where local artisans make and show
off their creations, and there is some very interesting crafts going on. We buy
some earings for Barb & myself from a lady doing glass beading.
We miss the next paper making tour so have lunch and wander down town to the museum to fill in time till next one. The museum was great – the have an indoor street with all the old shops decked out in their finery and wares of the day with placards telling you their stories. I know we’ve been to lots of pioneer villages but this set up was very well done. Then it was back to the Makers Centre for a paper making tour which was fantastic. We were shown over the factory and then had a go at making some ourselves. We had to stir up the mixture and then coat a mesh screen with the pulp and then plonk it down onto a felt placemat with the watermark embossing into it. All very gooey but fun and the resulting paper is too good to use. We come away with a few different pieces and ideas for making our own paper when we retire! They have some very lifelike statues around the gallery as well.
Stopping off at Edgecumbe Beach to stretch the legs has us exploring all the rocks on their edge – how did they end up like that? It is incredible to think of the earth’s forces pushing rocks up at such angles after the molten lava has set in perfect cylinders in some cases.
We miss the next paper making tour so have lunch and wander down town to the museum to fill in time till next one. The museum was great – the have an indoor street with all the old shops decked out in their finery and wares of the day with placards telling you their stories. I know we’ve been to lots of pioneer villages but this set up was very well done. Then it was back to the Makers Centre for a paper making tour which was fantastic. We were shown over the factory and then had a go at making some ourselves. We had to stir up the mixture and then coat a mesh screen with the pulp and then plonk it down onto a felt placemat with the watermark embossing into it. All very gooey but fun and the resulting paper is too good to use. We come away with a few different pieces and ideas for making our own paper when we retire! They have some very lifelike statues around the gallery as well.
Stopping off at Edgecumbe Beach to stretch the legs has us exploring all the rocks on their edge – how did they end up like that? It is incredible to think of the earth’s forces pushing rocks up at such angles after the molten lava has set in perfect cylinders in some cases.
9th
and Relle’s 30th birthday so we had a chat to David, Jayden, Lilly,
Jayden, Relle, Jayden, Zahra, Jayden & Dave on our way south.
We didn’t leave Irishtown until noon after having coffee and several chats to Terry & Joy who arrived home just after 9am, so only made it to Roseberry before we stopped for the night at Stitt River Park. A very pleasant spot amongst the trees and mist and overnight rain, which was lovely to hear on the roof. Unfortunately there was enough rain to flood the little bridge that led down to the waterfall so we didn’t see that. The Lions Club have dedicated the toilet block to all deceased Lions and Lionesses which is novel?
Montezuma Falls, the highest in Tassie are nearby so we hope to see them on a daytrip from Zeehan or Strahan wherever we make base for a few days.
We didn’t leave Irishtown until noon after having coffee and several chats to Terry & Joy who arrived home just after 9am, so only made it to Roseberry before we stopped for the night at Stitt River Park. A very pleasant spot amongst the trees and mist and overnight rain, which was lovely to hear on the roof. Unfortunately there was enough rain to flood the little bridge that led down to the waterfall so we didn’t see that. The Lions Club have dedicated the toilet block to all deceased Lions and Lionesses which is novel?
Montezuma Falls, the highest in Tassie are nearby so we hope to see them on a daytrip from Zeehan or Strahan wherever we make base for a few days.
10th
Not knowing what the road from Zeehan to Strahan was like we opt for the
highway and it is steep and winding though 2 lanes and eventually get to
Strahan, where we find out that you have to book in advance at the caravan
park. They do have an unpowered, unwatered site way down the back so we take it
for 2 nights and then go exploring. This is a very pretty place – all green and
trees, with the mountains behind and the harbour in front. It is a sunny day so
the water is blue and it looks a picture. After buying our tickets for the
cruise up Gordon river tomorrow, we look through the history display at
Information centre which tells the story of convicts, pining, conservationists
and tourism of Strahan which is its’ history.
After
walking through Peoples park on route to Hogarth's falls we meet up with a lady from Roma who
knows Ros well so it is getting to be a smaller world. There was some interesting fungi and cobwebs along the pathway.
Sarah Island seems to have been an awful convict settlement for 12 years – you can’t imagine how one human being can have been so cruel to another. Then it was a drive around town to see the sights – pretty good from the lookout, though there were plenty of rotting boats and jetties that could have been salvaged for their timber or something – and then we were off to the Theatre to see a play.
“The Ship
that never was” was built by the convicts on Sarah Island and then hijacked by
10 of them and sailed to Chille, where they lived for 2 years before 4 of them
were returned to trial in Hobart. It is hilarious and very well done by 3
actors who rope in a dozen or so members of the audience to play the other
parts. One 20 something male wasn’t too keen to get into the spirit of it but
the other people helped carry it off really well. I was one of the convicts who mustn't have been too popular because whenever they mentioned my name everyone had to boo.
Because the ships papers were lost when the ship was scuttled off Chille there was no official record of it so there was no proof that mutiny had occurred or that a ship had been lost, so the survivors’ lives were saved and they went on to become worthwhile citizens of state. It is an open air theatre and was quite cold – even J had to put his jacket on afterwards. Then we decided to go to the Hotel for dinner and waited in a queue to get a table – they did about 3 sittings – before ordering a Blue Eye Trevalla for me and J had a steak. They both came sitting on top of ‘smashed’ potatoes and mine had salsa on top – about a dessertspoon full. I cube of mango, 2 cubes of tomato and some sliced red onion and all for $27.00. We had ordered some garlic bread as we thought with the full house it might have taken a while – and it did, so we weren’t left hungry – just disappointed. Then it was home to caravan and our little section was full of campervans, motorhomes and tents.
Because the ships papers were lost when the ship was scuttled off Chille there was no official record of it so there was no proof that mutiny had occurred or that a ship had been lost, so the survivors’ lives were saved and they went on to become worthwhile citizens of state. It is an open air theatre and was quite cold – even J had to put his jacket on afterwards. Then we decided to go to the Hotel for dinner and waited in a queue to get a table – they did about 3 sittings – before ordering a Blue Eye Trevalla for me and J had a steak. They both came sitting on top of ‘smashed’ potatoes and mine had salsa on top – about a dessertspoon full. I cube of mango, 2 cubes of tomato and some sliced red onion and all for $27.00. We had ordered some garlic bread as we thought with the full house it might have taken a while – and it did, so we weren’t left hungry – just disappointed. Then it was home to caravan and our little section was full of campervans, motorhomes and tents.
11th
and it was up early to get to the catamaran for our cruise. We had spoken to
the lady in tent next door and offered her our little table and a chair as she
was sitting on the ground eating breakfast, and learned that she was from
Alaska so we will have to have a longer chat when we get back. We have seats on
the upper deck in the centre – all that was left – but as they are offset and
there are huge glass windows we could see everything. All through the trip out
the Captain gave a running commentary and invited people up to the bridge to
see how the ship is run – with several cups of coffee and a tiny little
joystick and a few small computer screens. There are 7 cabin crew to feed the
full complement of 222 passengers. We have morning tea on our way out to Hells
Gate the 66m wide 20m deep channel out to the Southern Ocean. We are so lucky
with a calm sunny day so he goes right out past the breakwater into the ocean near
Cape Sorrell, and it is very calm until he turns around to head back in and
then you can notice the swell. Today it was about 1m whereas it can get up to
20m. There are 2 lighthouses in the channel and one on Cape Sorrell.
Just
inside the entrance are 3 houses that once housed the pilots who brought the
ships in and out – today they are owned by locals who have to bring everything
in by boat. On the inside of Hells Gate is a long rock wall built in a curved
shape to channel the water through the passage. It was built by convicts who
had to quarry the rocks from the surrounding hillsides and cart them down to
water and onto a boat and then take them out to place them in a 7 klm long
wall, which was 7 meters wide at the bottom and about 1m at the top. The wall
is still there today and intact. Outside they have continued it along to form a
breakwater which is also still there but with a few small gaps where the waves
have pushed them over. When you think of the power of waves coming in from
south west it is amazing that any of it is still standing. Nowadays it is only
cruise ships with all their high tech navigation gear who come and go so it
pretty safe and if the sea is too rough they don’t go through the ‘gate’ or
past the end of breakwater.
Coming
back in we head for Sarah Island where 3 guides take groups around explaining
what all the ruins are from and life on the island – it was harsh. They did an
amazing job to survive there and build ships for the colony – but over 1200
managed to escape, some were recaptured but quite a few disappeared into the
bush never to be seen again. That was better than life on Sarah Island? The
ruins of Governors house, ovens and brick kiln are there along with the
solitary confinement cells and penitentiary – all in great positions
overlooking the water. I guess it looked idyllic in the sunshine today but
would have been the opposite on a cold, wet, windy, winters day in early 1800s.
While
we were wandering around the island the crew put lunch out and we ate very
well. Ham, Corned meat and Smoked Salmon, with salads of every shape and taste, and Camembert and Cheddar. After everyone had been served it was time for
seconds and thirds, so we went back for some biscuits with camembert and
salmon. With a glass of wine to wash it down with I was feeling very mellow by
the time we got to a fish farm. One round tank held 18 – 20,000 trout or
salmon. This one held trout which are bred in a hatchery in Hobart and
transported out here when they are 18 months old. They live here for a year in
which time they grow to the length of our forearm and are then taken out and
sold. Salmon are 2 years old when they come out and live here for 18 months by
which time they are the size of our leg and then they go to restaurants on the
mainland or in China. These contraptions are automatic fish feeders.
Then
it was time to cruise up the famous Gordon river and it looked pristine – you
could imagine being the first human to ever see it. We stopped off at Heritage landing
to go for a walk through the forest and ended up at the remnants of a 4000 year
old huon pine tree.
Our trip
ended at a sawmill on wharf in Strahan which uses a 100 year old saw to cut
through salvaged huon pine logs. Amongst a pile outside on jetty was one
signposted as being 900 years old. Huon pine doesn’t rot as it has an oil which also
gives it that distinct aroma.
12th John gets talking to our neighbour Fancy who
has had her visa card compromised and is waiting for her new one to arrive from
USA, so we invite her along with us when we go for a drive – don’t know what
she will think of our drives? The Henty dunes are between us and southern ocean
as we head north towards Granville Harbour.
It is just a small group of fishing huts so we head back to Trial Harbour which has a few more houses and a welcoming statue in the front yard of one. There is a seafarers museum as well as a lost walrus.
There are some lovely sandy beaches but it is very windswept, which means you have to look for flowers among the heath and rocks.
After lunch in Zeehan we have a quick trip through the museum which has been written up as being something special but lacked a lot from my point of view. With time to kill we decide to go to Montezuma falls. The sign at turn off says that it is a moderate 4WD track over 14 klms and will take 1 hour - that’s ok let’s have some fun. The more frightened Fancy got the more she talked and I didn’t want to look out the windscreen as we were bumping quite badly. An hour and half later we slid off a rock in a creek crossing and got stuck. No amount of pushing was going to move the boulder between axle and rear bumper so we unloaded everything out of the back onto road, jacked the car up so bumper was above rock and accelerated off quickly – wala we were free. Leaving everything in middle of road we continued on and found the falls and they are spectacular – and so is the suspension bridge that you have to cross to get a good view of them, and get to other side of river (2ft wide at top and 6 inches wide at bottom so you have to walk like a model which makes it sway more). Crossing over we are amazed to find 2 other couples who have walked in over 2 ½ hours from the Roseberry side. The old railway line has been turned into a walking trail which might have been better than the road we took – we passed another sign which said ‘adventurous 4WD track’ – goodness only knows what it was like, but I wasn’t going to find out – besides we had to go back to collect up all our goods and chattels and then try to find our toeball, as it was missing when we got stuck. There were no mishaps on the return journey and we even found the toeball lying in middle of road 10 klms away. All we have lost is the cotter pin that held toeball in place which we will have to replace before we can tow caravan out. With daylight saving and long twilight here we even get home before dark (9pm).
It is just a small group of fishing huts so we head back to Trial Harbour which has a few more houses and a welcoming statue in the front yard of one. There is a seafarers museum as well as a lost walrus.
There are some lovely sandy beaches but it is very windswept, which means you have to look for flowers among the heath and rocks.
After lunch in Zeehan we have a quick trip through the museum which has been written up as being something special but lacked a lot from my point of view. With time to kill we decide to go to Montezuma falls. The sign at turn off says that it is a moderate 4WD track over 14 klms and will take 1 hour - that’s ok let’s have some fun. The more frightened Fancy got the more she talked and I didn’t want to look out the windscreen as we were bumping quite badly. An hour and half later we slid off a rock in a creek crossing and got stuck. No amount of pushing was going to move the boulder between axle and rear bumper so we unloaded everything out of the back onto road, jacked the car up so bumper was above rock and accelerated off quickly – wala we were free. Leaving everything in middle of road we continued on and found the falls and they are spectacular – and so is the suspension bridge that you have to cross to get a good view of them, and get to other side of river (2ft wide at top and 6 inches wide at bottom so you have to walk like a model which makes it sway more). Crossing over we are amazed to find 2 other couples who have walked in over 2 ½ hours from the Roseberry side. The old railway line has been turned into a walking trail which might have been better than the road we took – we passed another sign which said ‘adventurous 4WD track’ – goodness only knows what it was like, but I wasn’t going to find out – besides we had to go back to collect up all our goods and chattels and then try to find our toeball, as it was missing when we got stuck. There were no mishaps on the return journey and we even found the toeball lying in middle of road 10 klms away. All we have lost is the cotter pin that held toeball in place which we will have to replace before we can tow caravan out. With daylight saving and long twilight here we even get home before dark (9pm).
14th Left Strahan after promising to catch
up with Fancy –we
go back up that twisting, steep road to Queenstown where we stop for lunch.
Someone said that there were 99 bends and I believe them. Reg & Lyn Brown from my Nashua days grew up here and I know why they left - it is a very stark landscape but people are upset that the trees are slowly growing back and the tourists won't come to see it.
Heading east to Derwent Bridge we stop at the Wall. A bloke has built a large ‘shed’ with 100m sides and has covered them and 2 centre walls with huon pine slabs about 4 feet wide and 6-8 feet high and then carved them in various themes. It is a marvellous sight and although not finished would have taken many thousands of hours of work. He doesn’t let anyone take photos and hasn’t got any brochures so you will have to come and see it for yourself. Wedge tail eagles are very popular down here so he has two at the front of the building.
Then it was on to Tarraleah for the night, with lots of bike riders clogging up the roads. They must have known we were behind them but couldn’t be bothered moving over so we could pass – it is no wonder they get run over. This village was built as home for builders of power station and is very pretty with lots of trees amongst the mountains and streams, but rather foggy and cold. This is the ‘Highland’ ecumenical church next to the resort/caravan park.
Heading east to Derwent Bridge we stop at the Wall. A bloke has built a large ‘shed’ with 100m sides and has covered them and 2 centre walls with huon pine slabs about 4 feet wide and 6-8 feet high and then carved them in various themes. It is a marvellous sight and although not finished would have taken many thousands of hours of work. He doesn’t let anyone take photos and hasn’t got any brochures so you will have to come and see it for yourself. Wedge tail eagles are very popular down here so he has two at the front of the building.
Then it was on to Tarraleah for the night, with lots of bike riders clogging up the roads. They must have known we were behind them but couldn’t be bothered moving over so we could pass – it is no wonder they get run over. This village was built as home for builders of power station and is very pretty with lots of trees amongst the mountains and streams, but rather foggy and cold. This is the ‘Highland’ ecumenical church next to the resort/caravan park.
15th We stop at
Hamilton for a pie as they had been recommended to us and then it was over to
Triabunna as Michelle didn’t want to see us. J was rather disappointed and felt
that it was just duty that made her see him, so he solved it by drinking heavily. There is a
lighthouse here but after lots of trips down dirt roads and around in circles
we gave up and went to look over Louisville, Orford, Shelley Beach and Spring
Beach. Pretty spots but not much sand mainly shells.
17th Beth’s birthday and as I was feeling down I rang Ros
and had a lovely chat to her.
18th We
have to drop off the car mirror in Sorell to get a new one so decide to head
over to Tasman Peninsula for a drive. Nearing the Denison Canal Bridge at
Dunalley we get held up in a big stream of traffic all at a standstill, so I
get out and go for a walk to find out why. The bridge is a swing one and it was
open to let two sailboats through. As soon as they were past the bridge swung
back into place (very quickly)and we all moved on. Our first stop was the Tessellated pavement, which is fascinating – rocks have formed into square tile shapes. You look out over Pirate Bay – don’t know why it was called that because it looked so calm and peaceful.
Stopping at the officers’ quarters on Eaglehawk Neck we have a walk around the buildings, but I am more interested in the Dog statue so we soon move on. They have a bronze statue of a guard dog at the neck and he looks very ferocious. The dogs were also out in the water in Eaglehawk bay so that the prisoners couldn’t swim across the bay to freedom.
After such barbaric treatment we try Tasman Arch and Devils Kitchen for some refinement. The arch as you can imagine is a hole eroded in rock wall and the kitchen is a steep sided inlet where the ocean comes roaring in. It was very calm so we didn’t see any violent crashing of waves here or at the blowhole. While we were there 2 coachloads of tourists arrived and most of them didn't even bother to walk around and look at everything. Don't know why you would pay to go on a tour if you aren't going to check out everything on offer.
With time to spare we venture down to Fortescue Bay,
where there is a lovely sandy beach and lots of paddymelons hopping about. We
went for a walk along with 50 teenagers on a school camp and then it was time
to head home along the dirt from Copping to Rheban.
19th I have a
chiropractors appointment in Huonville so we head back down to Geeveston to see
Miranda beforehand. The tourist brochures list a mushroom farm at Glen Huon; so
thinking we might get some cheaper mushies we go in – but no they do not do
tours or have sales anymore. After a delicious scallop pie at the bakery we have a
lovely chat to Miranda, Jellyroll and BB King and then Helen and her dog call
in so we catch up on the gossip from her American housesitters too. They weren't the best and not friendly to us either. Miranda
would like us to come back in October to sit while she goes to NZ for a holiday
– don’t know if we will make it. The Huon river was glassy as we passed by - pity it is so cold down here it would be lovely to wake up to this view every morning.
Once my ankles had died we waited for a bus to take us back to car which had had its service but we have to take it into Hobart next week to get some photos taken of the damage to see if Mitsubishi will cover the warranty. It was still pleasant when we got to Buckland so we looked inside the church which has lovely stained glass windows, but only has 1 service each month. At the front gate was a large tree which when felled they carved it into John baptising Jesus, which I liked.
Checking out the cemetery we find all one back corner is one family. At one stage there must have been something contagious because 3 kids die and then their mother – all in 4 month period. Ye old Buckland Inn is the only other notable building and has been so since 1831. They didn’t do meals so we didn’t stay but went into hotel in Triabunna for a very nice meal. It is amazing that you can get a really top class fancy meal in a little country pub for $20 and in anywhere touristy it will cost twice that for half the food. Two other guests came up to greet us and it turned out that they were at the theatre in Strahan and he played the ‘Governor’. They came from Bribie Island and wanted our photograph for their travel album. They were staying in one of the rooms at our caravan park so we went in to have a nightcap and chat with them afterwards.
21st Fancy
arrives back from her trip to Stanley and Cradle Mountain complaining about the
wet and cold - which was what I thought Alaska was like all the time. I guess you need warmer clothes.
23rd Late Sunday morning Michelle came over for lunch
and we enjoyed fish and chips from the fish van on wharf and chatted the
afternoon away. Calling in at the Christmas shop, Michelle bought some material
for another bag so I have a sewing job. She has been having a terrible time
with the takeover by OPSM and the backward step to operate their computer
system.
24th We
trekked up to Coles Bay L/O with a million other tourists, but didn’t go all
the way to Wineglass Bay- it would have been very Japanese. Lunch was a picnic on Richardson’s Beach with a few Pacific gulls before walking around Cape Tourville L/H with a few Bennetts Wallabys.
Then it was a stop at Fortescue Fish Farm for a dozen
oysters with salmon & brie and a bottle of Kelvedon sav blanc wine, and 2
dozen oysters for dinner. On the way home we stop at Devils Corner Winery for some
tastings. They also had some very nice wines and would have had a great view
over Great Oyster Bay but alas it was raining. We came home with a mixed carton
of shiraz and chardonnay.
25th
Maria Island was our destination and on the way past we saw Triabunna
Lighthouse! The land is owned by woodchip mill and has been closed off to
public.
In no time we were on the jetty and offloading all the ferry passengers and their luggage. While this was happening the day tourists had 30 minutes to check out the Commisariat’s store and the mussels growing on jetty pylons before reboarding and heading around Cape Boulanger and across Fossil bay to a sea cave with thousands of fossils on roof and walls.
On the way we passed a small waterfall high up on cliff face, along with a few big rocks covered with guano and a few shags – guess it must be a favourite resting spot. The moisture was enough to enable plants grow too.
Bishop and Clerk is the mountain on very edge of island. If the weather is calm they would go around to Riedle Bay for lunch but it was far too dangerous so we went inside Mercury passage and stopped for lunch at Shoal bay. I am sure it was just as lovely with their painted cliffs and it was very calm.
Fancy jumped in to see how deep the water was – but I wasn’t going to be wet and cold for the rest of day. After another superb lunch with lots salmon and camembert as well as other salads the pilot gave everyone a turn at the helm which was interesting and since we didn’t come to grief lots of fun.
Back at the jetty we had an hour to walk about Darlington looking at the buildings. If you are staying over you have to bring all your own food as there are no shops. Some of our passengers took the scraps from lunch as they were staying the night and coming back the following afternoon. That would have been good as there are several walks that you can do. One goes to sea cave and another to the bay where we had lunch. Another one goes inland to Mt Maria and if you have several days and very fit you can walk to the southern point at Barren Head. There are some interesting buildings at the end of a lovely tree lined avenue and lots of cape barren geese wandering around.
A sign on one of walls says it all, but I'm glad I didn't stay for afternoon tea - it might have been a little cold.
26th While car was being photographed and front shockies replaced in Hobart we walked down to Salamanca place to find the good earth shop, which sells Bruny Island cheese and Matthew Evans’ products. After morning tea we watched a chef prepare some salmon that tasted even better than it looked. Not being hungry we opted to do the red bus tourist drive around Hobart to see where we might like to get off and explore. The bus was full of American tourists who had only arrived this morning so we got to chat to those near us. When we arrived back it was 3pm and being a little hungry we popped into a pizza place and had a decent wait for a very nice meal. Next door is Mawson’s hut – a replica of the hut in Antarctica which you can do a tour through. It was also fascinating – how you could live in such close proximity to everyone for a year and for some of them 2 years baffles me. The building has a hall around three outer sides which housed the stores and the dogs and there are two inner rooms for living and Mawson’s bedroom/office, with the workshop against the fourth side. It was all heated by one little heater and had gas lamps for light. Some of the men had little shelves above their bunks for books etc.
Then we had to trudge back up the hill to the car. They
say that they will send the photos and an explanation to Mitsubishi in Adelaide
so we will just have to wait and see what the outcome is. We stop off at the
Buckland church for Fancy to have a look around and then head home to a warm
caravan.
27th Our
idea today was to see the fairy penguins at Bicheno so we took the long way
through Buckland, Woodsdale and Whiteford to Oatlands. On the way we stopped
for Fancy to photograph some kookaburras on powerlines and me to take pictures
of a nursery in Oatlands.We stop at the Ross bridge for the same reason, and as Fancy wants to go to the Wool Factory we pull up outside the Uniting church nearby. Out of curiosity I wander inside and am amazed at the beautiful carvings and woodwork, to say nothing of the paintings of Lords Prayer, Creed and Ten Commandments.
Outside the wood craft studio they have a tassie devil at his friendliest. I bought some lovely wool for Michelle’s dolls hair at the Wool shop, and Fancy bought a cute beanie for her granddaughter.
On our way into Bicheno we find our spot to watch the penguins near the blowhole, and do a tour of town before stopping at the hotel for dinner, which is very pleasant with its view over the Tasman Sea. We have plenty of time to see the penguins but only two turn up so at 10.30pm we give up and head home. After the first five possums are seen I decide to count them and by the time we get home we have seen twenty-six between guide posts. The two who were copulating in middle of road didn’t even bother moving. Some of them were very reluctant to move so we had a few quick brakings but didn’t hit any. It is no wonder that there are so many dead on side of roads.
28th Heading back to Tasman Peninsular we drop Fancy off at Port Arthur for the day and we go and explore Maingon Bay and Remarkable Cave. The view from boardwalk to Cape Raoul is stunning and is complemented by the flora growing nearby.
The steep climb down into Remarkable cave is worth it when you see the ocean through a hole in rock. There must have been over a hundred steps back up to the car. This is looking at the outside wall of cave.
Looking from cave seawards -
Inside the cave towards the sea -
While heading to our lunch stop beside Carnarvon Bay we have to go down Dog Bark road but there were no dogs barking at the time. Enroute to White Beach and Nubeena we pass a blue gum plantation. The owner had received lots of awards (according to a sign at gate) for his tree plantings and these will look stunning when fully grown.
With time to spare we head north to Lime Bay reserve which had some beaches but not much of a camp ground. Seeing some signs for Coal mines convict settlement 1833-48 we drive in to see what it was about – literally a coal mine worked by the Port Arthur inmates on detention. The solitary confinement cells were open for you to walk through and were barbaric. In some of the ruins you could see where the cell bars had been gouged into the walls. We found a convict made brick with its mark lying beside a path – amazing someone hadn’t stolen it. Don’t know what George Taggart did or didn’t do but he earned the nickname ‘useless’.
The kitchen chimney had a lean on it but J says that is to give better draw. The building used as a church had an elaborate decoration along the front and two rooms. We couldn’t tell if one room was for prisoners and one for soldiers etc but why else would you have two rooms. I have since been told that one room could have been chaplin's bedroom. The hospital had the better view over the water but I hope they had glass in windows as it would have been a bit drafty without it.
Then it was time to head back to Port Arthur to collect
Fancy who had a great day. We stopped at Dunalley Hotel to see their fishermen
at work, on way home.
3rd We cancel our trip to
Bridport/Deloraine and book flights back to Qld in a daze.
5th After an uneventful flight we were met by
Barb, who took us over to Hendra to pick up a hire car. She wouldn’t come over
to Zillmere so we arrange to meet up tomorrow, and we head over to Bill and
Yvonne’s.
6th Barb’s birthday so while she is
delivering Tyler & Liam to school and daycare we checkout Spotlight for
some buttons etc, buy subway for lunch and head over to Shannon’s to try to
cheer her up. At 3pm she collects the boys and we meet up at the pool where Tyler has swimming lessons. He is very good and won his race across the
pool. The lessons were completely different from what we had as kids. Tyler greeted me with a big scream 'Pet' and hug at the door but Liam is still a bit shy and just sat on the seat eating his afternoon tea. Afterwards we went back to Shannon’s for a pizza dinner before heading back to
Zillmere. It would have been nice to have stayed with Barb but since we can't trust Bob it doesn't happen.
7th And we were off to Toowoomba to see
the Public Trustee, Heritage Funerals and lunch at Shingle Inn before going out
to Pittsworth to see Garth and Jan. Public Trustee nearly caused a heart attack
when they said their charges would start around $4700. Fortunately there should
be $9000 in rent by then so we shouldn’t have to pay out anything beforehand. How
they can charge that amount and take 6 months to close 1 bank account and
transfer the house and some money to us? Jane at Heritage was her lovely self
and we made it through the proceedings with only a few tears. The interest on
moneys we paid 3 years ago covered the extra costs and we will get $250 back.
Barb enjoyed her meal at lunch but I didn’t think much of mine and J didn’t
like his and had to wait for a cold coffee which did nothing for his mood.
Garth and Jan were lovely as usual and soon all was over and we could head back
to Brisbane.
8th Penny calls in so we meet Lily and
Piper. Lily enjoys dressing up grandad and J as well as herself and Piper tries
to join in but has the dolls’ house to keep an eye on.
9th After church we head over to Maureen’s but she isn’t home so we wander up to Wivenhoe dam for a picnic lunch before going over to Laidley for the night.
10th Up to Pittsworth where we meet up with those friends and relatives who made the trip. Jamie came with Shannon and the boys and is still as handsome as ever. Leiba and Brian bought Malcolm and David with them. David is tall and dark – like Malcolm in his younger days and not at all like Leiba or Mirriam. Don & Alan Neumann also came up from Gatton. Of course Kevin & Joyce, and Beris and Doug bought Val over from Oakey so with Lyndsay thinking of us from England we had full contingent of Gordon cousins – though there aren’t many of us left. It was hard seeing Billie and Shirley who were so close to Mother.
Barb wants a copy of The Sentinel so we go down town and end up having a coffee with Jeanette Krinke who fills us in on the happenings of the Hook family. It was a sad trip down to cemetery to give Dad some flowers - it always is and then we bid farewell to Barb and her car full of flowers and head to Frosty's for dinner. It is a long night but was good for Steve to have a chat to J about some problems.
11th Leave Frosty’s and call in to have lunch
with Barb before going over to Zillmere, where I promptly fall asleep and leave J, Bill & Yvonne to drop off car.
12th Very early start has Bill &
Yvonne dropping us off at the airport at 6.30, but after the plane
disappearance on Sunday security was heavy – I took my shoes off in advance and
they didn’t beep so go figure. We get through security in time to buy a paper
and walk onto the plane. Coming into land in Hobart my ears were on fire – it
was so painful. We stop at Sorell Fruit farm for some jam and wine tastings and
buy some tayberry jam and apples. We have to come back here in Dec/Jan to try some of their berries - some I have never heard of. The rubbish man has dropped a bottle from bin when emptying it and has broken one of our solar panels but otherwise caravan is ok so we thank Tony and pack up to leave early tomorrow.
13th Head up Lake Leake road to Midland
H’way, and stop in Perth at Devil’s Bakehouse for the most divine gourmet
scallop pie for lunch. As they were still in the oven when we arrived we had
desert first – pecan pie and it was lovely too. We couldn't stop at Cambridge Inn for a proper photo and look around so I had to take a flying one as we sped past. We have been at Apex Park in
Deloraine when we were here 4 years ago, so it was familiar.
14th Chudleigh Honey and Silk Tasmania was
our first stop, with 50 different varieties of honey to taste it was amazing we
made it through the day. Some Cajun
honey, lime honey, nougat and bee pencils made it into the car with us. Silk Tasmania had
some lovely scarves as well as other craft items. The townsfolk have planted
roses alongside the road and they would have been wonderful when in full bloom –
at the moment they were towards the end of flowering but still quite
spectacular. Devil’s gullet was our next port of call, and is a valley between
mountain ranges and alas was very misty and foggy when we arrived so didn’t get
to see too much, but there were some spectacular bright flowers beside the road.
After a slow crawl through narrow, winding dirt road we can see
Walls of Jerusalem NP – a pretty spectacular rock wall so we stop for our
picnic lunch and admire the view through the trees. You cannot drive into the park - have to walk in carrying everything.
Coming out our altimeter
says we dropped 750m in 14klm. Fisher river L/O and Mersey Valley L/O have some
lovely views after you climb back up 690m.
We wind our way to Cradle Mtn
nestled beside Dove Lake and it is crowded with people who must have done day
walks and were waiting for the bus to take them back to resorts. It is a very
serene place if you could divest yourself of all the crowds, and I would like
to come back another day and walk around the lake.
There were some more incredible flowers along the roadside as well as a pitiful excuse for a river.
We find some
letter boxes near Lower Wilmot, on our way through Nowhere else (nothing there), Lower
Crackpot (has a very expensive maze), Mt Rowland, Sheffield, and Railton with all their topiaries.
While checking out the ones we saw last time to see how they had grown we find a few more.
On
roadside near Kimberley we find some statues waiting for someone to stop and
say Gidday and a trotter who probably wished he could stop for a chat.
15th Yarns Artwork in Silk and museum in
Deloraine was our first stop and it is amazing. They have the most spectacular
silk patchwork/applique murals around the walls of auditorium. They depict the
local area and its’ flora and fauna, people and activities over the four
seasons of year. They have a tape telling you the story of it and then you have
a short while to view it before the lights go out.
Some of the details are stunning - wouldn't it be wonderful to be able to do patchwork/applique like this?
Nearby we find John Beaumont’s grave – he was a surveyor who found the Lake and is buried looking over it – bet he is happy. Our first Tasmanian tiger snake slithered across the road as we were leaving and then we found an echidna who buried his head in ground in preference to having photo taken.
Then we tried to find Jericho before stopping for afternoon tea at Elm Café in Bothwell. They had lots of crockery and bits and pieces on display to browse through before enjoying a lovely citrus slice.
On our way home we found the Steppe Stones, large rocks with statues attached. They were very well done.
17th Westbury Maze had us lost a few times but we found the lookout and climbed it to see how to get out.
The Copper and metal art gallery in Carrick was a fascinating place where we bought some leafy seadragon earings and a guitar for Frosty & Tracey’s music room.
Travelling through Hagley we find Grindelwald Swiss Village and stop for lunch (not much choice or taste) before checking out the buildings and gardens of resort which were a lot nicer.
Ashgrove cheese had some cows to welcome us along with 2 bus loads of tourists so we did the circle of cheese tastings, bought a few and left for Anvers chocolates, who had less tourists and lots of chocolates to buy – so I did.
18th Ben Lomond NP was today’s destination and was cool, overcast and high up in the clouds. We stop at Jacobs Ladder in awe of the rock formations.
There is a scout camp nearby and must have been wonderful for the kids to go exploring. You can walk cross country to the ski resort if you are mad enough.
Some of the details are stunning - wouldn't it be wonderful to be able to do patchwork/applique like this?
We wander around the museum enjoying their display before
taking the Lake H’way to Alma Pass and into Interlaken and have a picnic lunch
beside Great Lake but it was blowy and overcast.
Nearby we find John Beaumont’s grave – he was a surveyor who found the Lake and is buried looking over it – bet he is happy. Our first Tasmanian tiger snake slithered across the road as we were leaving and then we found an echidna who buried his head in ground in preference to having photo taken.
We tried to find the monuments to Yvonne’s grandfather
Sir Walter Lee but only found the Quamby corner caravan park which we will have
to come back to.
16th I am in seventh heaven today as we find Seahorse world and Platypus House in Beauty Point. We
have a tour of the seahorse tanks and they have an amazing array of the little
creatures. At the end they have a tank with pot bellied ones in, that you can
hold – so I got to hold one. The shell/skin was quite rough but as you can imagine
they are very light and he just lay there on my fingers. J got a good photo of one of their octopus too. We did a tour at
Platypus house too and saw several, as well as a few Tasmanian echidnas. After
lunch we walk into West beach at Greens Point before heading home through the
countryside where a guy seemed to like sitting on his tractor.
17th Westbury Maze had us lost a few times but we found the lookout and climbed it to see how to get out.
The Copper and metal art gallery in Carrick was a fascinating place where we bought some leafy seadragon earings and a guitar for Frosty & Tracey’s music room.
Travelling through Hagley we find Grindelwald Swiss Village and stop for lunch (not much choice or taste) before checking out the buildings and gardens of resort which were a lot nicer.
Ashgrove cheese had some cows to welcome us along with 2 bus loads of tourists so we did the circle of cheese tastings, bought a few and left for Anvers chocolates, who had less tourists and lots of chocolates to buy – so I did.
Through the countryside to Port Sorell where we went for
a walk along beach and checked out the crabs, before going to Squeaking Point - didn't hear anything noisy; heading back to Paradise - couldn't find anything except the sign; and home through Railton where we found their War Memorial.
18th Ben Lomond NP was today’s destination and was cool, overcast and high up in the clouds. We stop at Jacobs Ladder in awe of the rock formations.
There is a scout camp nearby and must have been wonderful for the kids to go exploring. You can walk cross country to the ski resort if you are mad enough.
19th We have to
have a look around Launceston so I pick out Clockwise, 1842, and the Old
Umbrella Shop for us to visit. Clockwise had hundreds of different clocks and I
would have loved to buy several. 1842 is a furniture store inside a shop built
in 1842 where we found some lovely furniture. The Umbrella shop has always been
one and they had lots on display as well as some for sale. The building is
owned and operated by National Trust so we had a chat to the 2 ladies on duty
before finding a Mexican restaurant for lunch. We had fun at Tin Shed Pottery
near Aurora stadium where they had lots of different artisans at work. We
stopped to watch a young girl making fancy buttons and bought 2. We loved some
of the ceramics that had a special glaze fired with them. Then it was time to
find the wineries at Reilba. Josef Cromy was very classy but the girl doing the
tastings was down to earth and very informative. They had some nice wines too
so we came away with a box of shiraz. Down the road was where a lovely young
guy had us in stitches with his deliveries and knowledge. This winery was very
basic but in process of being upgraded and they also had some nice wines. Driving around Westbury we found the Uniting church and it's memorial to Sir Walter which was very informative - his granddaughter must have inherited his get up and go.
20th We have to
go back to St Helens to pick up my pendant and on the way we stop in at the Tin
Centre in Derby, where they have built an interpretive centre with lots of
information and a film of a big flood which wiped out much of the town and
surrounding countryside. It was so peaceful on verandah looking out over the
tiny stream it was hard to imagine it could have been the raging torrent we had
just seen. Then it was off to Knaut to pick up my seahorse pendant and it is
lovely. He only wanted $220 for it and a chain which was a big surprise. Up to
St Mary’s for lunch at Elephant Pass pancakes and home through Cressy and
Bracknell brought a long but satisfying day to an end.
On our way home we found some ‘men’ looking over the
fence at a golfer and swaggie and some more wonderful silhouettes in the garden
of farm next door.
21st Fancy went
off to Chudleigh to buy some honey so we went to lunch at 41* South Salmon
& Ginseng farm. They had lots of ginseng products on sale and salmon
tastings, so we settled on a shared plate and washed it down with a bottle of
their sav blanc. There is a festival on in Deloraine over the weekend and lots
of people have set up tables in main street so we wander along looking at the
arts and crafts and statues that are a permanent part of streetscape. I bought
a pink bag for $10 to match the blouse I bought in Toowoomba. Bonney's Inn is now a B n B and the oldest building in Deloraine.
22nd
‘Stringfest’ in Deloraine is at the end of caravan park so we have bacon
and eggs from Lions for breakfast and check out all the stalls where I buy an
owl t-shirt and Venison burger for lunch, while listening to several bands and
singers. Then it was off to Lions v Hawks in Launceston – didn’t think we would
win but they played reasonably for 3 quarters. I did my bit to support them! John has fun explaining the
rules to Fancy who we hope has enjoyed spending time with us as we have with
her.
Driving around Launceston we find Jack climbing up a beanstalk growing up the front wall of his house.
23rd Sunday morning has us bidding Fancy a tearful goodbye and turning up for church at 9am and no one else, so we went back to caravan and finished packing up and wandered up to music area of “Stringfest” and sat in the sun for a few hours listening to some good musicians. When it was time to head to Devonport and the ferry we discovered that the speedo wasn’t working but with ‘Katrina’ on we were ok. After 20klms the speedo starting working again. Made it to Ferry with plenty of time to spare so found a seat and watched the world go by – well Devonport and Mersey river. This is the bridge at one end of the ferry.
After sunset it was off to another tepid dinner then we roamed boat trying to find a tv showing the cricket – it was 20 feet from where we had dinner!! 20 of us watched Australia lose to Pakistan in World cup T20. Let’s hope we have better luck against West Indies. The Captain had said that we were to have 1 – 2 m swell but I didn’t feel anything.
23rd Sunday morning has us bidding Fancy a tearful goodbye and turning up for church at 9am and no one else, so we went back to caravan and finished packing up and wandered up to music area of “Stringfest” and sat in the sun for a few hours listening to some good musicians. When it was time to head to Devonport and the ferry we discovered that the speedo wasn’t working but with ‘Katrina’ on we were ok. After 20klms the speedo starting working again. Made it to Ferry with plenty of time to spare so found a seat and watched the world go by – well Devonport and Mersey river. This is the bridge at one end of the ferry.
After sunset it was off to another tepid dinner then we roamed boat trying to find a tv showing the cricket – it was 20 feet from where we had dinner!! 20 of us watched Australia lose to Pakistan in World cup T20. Let’s hope we have better luck against West Indies. The Captain had said that we were to have 1 – 2 m swell but I didn’t feel anything.
24th Getting out of Melbourne proved trying as we
missed a few turns – GPS wasn’t too accurate and we couldn’t get into correct
lane, but eventually we made it to Hume H’way and arrived at Regal caravans at
7.50am. It was still dark at 7.15am also wet, foggy, cloudy and cold!!!! how
could anyone live here? John spoke to Dean about all the warranty and insurance
claims and also got them to put an extra water tank underneath. Then we headed
off up the highway a bit before stopping at a roadside rest area for breakfast
– was it noisy! J rang the Mitsubishi dealer in Seymour (closest) and got car
booked in to see about the speedo which wasn’t working again, and a motor light
that had come on in the dashboard; so we headed into Seymour to offload the
caravan. I managed to have a sleep in the afternoon before ringing the garage,
only to find out that they couldn’t find the problem and would need the car for
a few days!!
25th After a leisurely breakfast we walk
towards town before stopping for some groceries at Aldi – of course the
shopping bags were still in car. The staff at the information centre were very
friendly and helpful so we filled in some time there and checked out the art
gallery in old courthouse. They have lots of old buildings with plaques on to
tell you what they were. The town is quite big – 6,500 pop and runs along the
Goulbourn river.
26th We spend time trying to ring Tyler to wish him a ‘Happy Birthday’ and eventually get Shannon who informs us that he is running in his ‘cross country’ at Kindy. Can you believe it – 4 year olds running 300 meters. Anyway he came 7th and was thrilled to tell us about it when we managed to talk to him after lunch.
26th We spend time trying to ring Tyler to wish him a ‘Happy Birthday’ and eventually get Shannon who informs us that he is running in his ‘cross country’ at Kindy. Can you believe it – 4 year olds running 300 meters. Anyway he came 7th and was thrilled to tell us about it when we managed to talk to him after lunch.
After
getting the good news from garage we collect the car and spend the afternoon at
Puckapunyal Tank Museum. There weren’t any buildings around from 1971, but J
did recognise a Centurion tank, and a Leopard tank as well as a few bits of
radio gear that he had used. They have 90 tanks on display and a few more being
restored. The owls roosting everywhere must do the trick as there was no bird poo or even sightings of birds. One tank had an 'unusual gadget' on the front that caused some mirth when pondering its original use.
We also found a WWi train carriage that had carried horses to the boats, with a horse in situ to show how cramped it must have been for them.
Then
we wandered along the ‘Vietnam Veterans Commemorative Walk’ and found Graham,
Rob, Gary and Trevor’s names in Army section, and Tug, Russell and Bob’s names
in Navy section.
I should have looked for Mick Purcell's name - one of the good guys from Nashua, who had some big problems with the war. Maybe one day we will go back there.
The
walk is very poignant – well done and surrounded by gum trees.
All the new recruits for National Service came to Pucka for
initial induction, and all soldiers to Vietnam trained here so it has meaning for hundreds of thousands of men.There is also an Australian Light Horse Memorial Park which was having work done on it when we called.
Another old building in Seymour is the lockup - talk about man's inhumanity to fellow man.
Since we are back on mainland you will have to log onto no 11 to read the rest of our travels.
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